Interloop: Supply chain truth begins in the cotton field

During the GS1 - WAIR 24h Circular Fashion Journey, Pascal Betten, managing director of Interloop Europe, presented an in-depth vision on supply chain transparency. The Pakistani textile giant produces nearly one billion pairs of socks annually for retailers like Nike, Adidas and H&M. The company emphasised that a reliable Digital Product Passport (DPP) depends on validating data at the source.

Gap between certification and reality

Betten expressed his concerns about the current state of sustainability claims. Although Interloop works with numerous certifications, such as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), he stated that this data can sometimes be misleading at the consumer level. BCI does not guarantee that a specific garment physically contains that cotton. It only ensures that sustainable sourcing has occurred somewhere in the supply chain. A truthful DPP requires a shift from document-based claims to physical traceability.

Upstream truth as a foundation

A crucial insight from the presentation is that the credibility of downstream data is entirely dependent on “upstream truth”.

“It does not start in the factory or the shop, but in the cotton field,” said Betten. To ensure this, Interloop has established its own cotton farms as a blueprint for regenerative agriculture. Currently, 10,000 farmers are connected, with data being recorded directly from the field.

Validation via unique identification

Interloop has developed a “track and trace” system where data follows the physical material, not the other way around. Each step in the supply chain—from the cotton bale through the yarn to the final product—receives a unique QR code. This is linked to GS1 standards, including the Global Trade Item Number (GTIN) for products and the Global Location Number (GLN) for locations. This creates an immutable digital trail.

Complexity of Tier 4 suppliers

For many brands, transparency in the deeper layers of the supply chain (Tier 3 and Tier 4) is a huge challenge because they do not own these companies. Betten emphasised that collaboration and trust are essential to convince suppliers to share their data. At Interloop, the system is designed so that each actor enriches the existing record but cannot overwrite previous data. This ensures the integrity of the information.

Trust through verification

According to Betten, the difference between transparency and trust lies in verification. Transparency is merely showing data. Trust only emerges when that data is audited, timestamped and independently verified. A DPP must therefore be a “living document” that grows throughout the product's entire lifecycle.

Conclusion

For Interloop, circularity and transparency are inextricably linked to its mission as an “agent of positive change”. By capturing item-level data from the source, the company creates a foundation that retailers and consumers can build upon. At a time when EU regulations regarding the DPP are still developing, Interloop demonstrates that proactive action and supply chain integration are the only way forward.

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