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Kingpins names top 10 sustainable products from Amsterdam SS21 show

By Huw Hughes


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Denim trade fair Kingpins has named the ten most sustainable products featured at its most recent Amsterdam event held between 23 and 24 October.

This is the second time Kingpins has released such a list following the launch of the trade fair’s Most Sustainable Products (MSP) initiative in May, an initiative which aims to help buyers and brands spot the most sustainable products at its shows. This season, the selected products fell into three general categories: fibres, application processes and new concepts. Below is Kingpins’ full list:

Mill: Artistic Milliners
Product: Bio-Vision platform
Description: A new platform built upon research into the opportunities to find the best (and evolving) options for biodegradable/compostable ingredients, which align with the zero-waste design idea. The value proposition of Bio-vision innovation is to eliminate poly in stretch constructions for jeans while maintaining the performance derived from poly blends. Bio-vision fabrics are Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign compliant.

Mill: Bossa
Product: Org Deolinda SavesWorldShield
Description: Features a combination of sustainable fibres and dyeing techniques. SavesWorldShield denim is made of 54 percent Refibra; 20 percent recycled cotton; 20 percent organic cotton; 5 percent recycled polyester and 1 percent elastane. The denim has an authentic look and claims of water savings (due to Saveblue dyeing technique) are independently verified.

Mill: Calik Denim
Product: Denethic Denim
Description: A collection of fabrics produced with rinse, rinse + enzyme and bleach wash effects that boast water savings at both mill and laundry levels (ranging from 13 percent to 44 percent), as well as time savings of 18 percent to 45 percent at the laundry. Denethic fabrics create significant resource-saving values for both fabric production and garment washing steps.

Mill: Candiani Denim
Product: Old Recycled (SK6256 K)
Description: A blend of 31 percent recycled pre-consumer cotton, 2 percent recycled pre-consumer elastan, 55 percent lyocell and 12 percent cotton that is OCS, GRS certified. Old Recycled features a combination of best-so-far materials and technologies at each step of the manufacturing process, including the dyeing process, which helps to save 15 percent water, 33 percent chemicals, and 25 percent energy compared to conventional dyeing processes.

Mill: Kilim Denim
Product: Morris Middark Cactus PCRD ST (D5329)
Description: A well-made fabric with a combination of high-level construction, visuals and composition, Morris uses 100 percent organic cotton in the warp, 47.5 percent recycled cotton, 47.5 percent recycled polyester and 5 percent elastane on the weft. The Cactus Project uses a newly developed chemical that improves the fixation of indigo on the warp yarn – resulting in less water being used to remove unfixed dyestuff. Kilim estimates water used for this process will be decreased 93 percent.

Mill: Naveena Denim
Product: Blue Hemp concept
Description: Naveena is going deep into hemp with their Blue Hemp concept, which is a collection of hemp-blend denim fabrics that include a combination of cottonized hemp (up to 50 percent), Tencel and recycled polyester by UNIFI. Blue Hemp fabrics are finished with ozone by Jeanologia.

Mill: Neela Blue
Product: Green by NB
Description: Made with 77 percent organic cotton and 22 percent post-consumer waste cotton, Green features a different technique of yarn spinning to create a new look and the use of post-consumer dyed waste means Green does not involve any dyeing at all – resulting in chemical and water savings as well as elimination of the discharge of polluted water. Green is certified by GRS, OCS and GOTS.

Mill: Orta Anadolu
Product: Immortalist collection
Description: A clever combination of organic cotton and functional, responsible fibers, Immortalist fabrics represent a deep investment in fibers and dyeing processes. A key Immortalist fabric features 79 percent organic cotton with an organic cotton warp, 15 percent Tencel x Refibra, 4 percent Ecomade T400 and 2 percent elastane. The weft is Elastane + Ecomade T400 with organic cotton and Refibra. Life cycle analysis studies give additional value to the concept.

Mill: Prosperity Textile
Product: Revelation Blue (RA3713V)
Description: An indigo-free blue denim with authentic wash-downs. Revelation Blue features a new proprietary eco dyeing technology that is aniline-free, hydrosulfite-free and offers 60 percent water savings.

Mill: Vicunha
Product: Twig
Description: Lightweight denim fabric made without the use of virgin cotton. A continuation of the project initiated with Adriano Goldschmied, Twig fabric is produced with GRS-certified recycled cotton and no additional dye processes – resulting in the use of 90 percent less dye and 95 percent less water.

Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show and the Kingpins Transformers summit series, said in a statement: “Innovation, sustainability and transparency are the critical elements of our show today. The MSP initiative is our solution to bring actionable and reliable information to brands and designers looking for the most sustainable and impactful resources at their disposal.

“Weeks before Kingpins Amsterdam, the MSP team looks at our entire show roster and pre-selects MSP candidates. Then we discuss their products with them before the show and again during the show - and in this way are able to make a selection. We do this for each Amsterdam show. Our research is continual and we are open to hearing from any and all mills anytime - 24/7, 365 days a year - for new, sustainable products.”

Photo credit: FashionUnited

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