Lenzing’s Vision Beyond Kingpins Amsterdam: Collaborative Innovation as the Catalyst for Denim’s Future

Halfway through 2025, the global denim community continues to evolve and adapt to the changing tides of consumer preferences and market sentiments. Recent industry events such as Kingpins Amsterdam have unveiled some of the latest innovations, trends evolving around traditional craftsmanship and collaborations that will continue to shape the trajectory of denim.

This season's edition of Kingpins Amsterdam placed emphasis on forward-thinking collaborations and impactful partnerships that focused on scaling sustainable solutions, like Lenzing's latest collections with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei and Kaihara [1] [2] [3] [4] [5], Lycra's bio-derived EcoMade Fiber, and UNIFI with its REPREVE with CiCLO® technology. The event also paid close attention to Japan's denim mills and manufacturers in the new "Made in Japan" Hall, reaffirming their continued influence on premium and selvedge market trends, as well as current trends from stretch in denim to new washing techniques.

Innovative Collaborations Reshape Fiber Technology [1]

Over at the Lenzing stand, the fiber manufacturer presented its Application Innovation Collection 2025, an anticipated, meticulous curation of denim innovations spotlighting its latest TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers. Developed in collaboration with close to a dozen partner mills, the seasonal showcase explored new ways to apply Lenzing's fiber innovations across the supply chain, encompassing a collection that included pieces made from a mix of cotton, TENCEL™, linen, LENZING™ ECOVERO™ jacquards, and hybrid blends like TENCEL™ with pineapple fibers. The collection also included digitally printed 100% TENCEL™ fabrics using Stella Blu's Cooltrans technology from NTX.

"Today’s denim industry is on a continuous journey of creativity and innovation that really connects with consumers and reflects the world around us. Kingpins Amsterdam is a perfect global platform to showcase how our latest collections inspire the denim community and ignite new ideas,” shared Tuncay Kılıçkan, Head of Global Business Development, Denim at Lenzing AG. “We’re ultimately working towards an ecosystem where fiber producers, mills, and brands come together to create innovative solutions."

"Our exhibitors continue to introduce new products that save water and energy, use fewer harmful chemicals and are generally less taxing on the environment," added Vivian Wang, CEO of Kingpins. "But we're also seeing companies look at sustainability and circularity in new ways. This was the focus of several of our initiatives, including a collaboration between Orta and Saint Muze designer Sam Zegelink, who upcycled leftover samples and fabric scraps from Orta into new, wearable designs."

"At Kingpins, we love collaborations," continued Wang. "A collaboration is a great way to demonstrate how a new development can be used in a consumer product." One exciting new collaboration incorporating sustainability, circularity, and denim trends was the SAISEI collection, developed in partnership with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Japanese denim mill Kaihara, and Lenzing. [1] [2] [3] [4] A collaborative initiative that combined circular materials and Japanese artisanal denim manufacturing, the collection features three different denim fabrics: super stretch (Monster Stretch by Kaihara Denim), comfort stretch, and low-stretch selvedge made from innovative blends using LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded viscose fibers with REFIBRA™ technology [2] and ROICA™ EF, a recycled stretch fiber [4].

Presented in the "Made in Japan" Hall, the SAISEI Collection marked the first denim collection to feature LENZING™ ECOVERO™ with REFIBRA™ technology with different levels of stretch. The collection offered new, more sustainable fiber applications for denim fabrication while tapping into a key trend witnessed at Kingpins Amsterdam: the return of stretch and performance denim. Seen at denim mills like Advance Denim, which is actively developing stretch denim made with recycled, biodegradable, or dual-purpose materials, stretch is making a comeback in the denim market. "Stretch is back and next level stretch will always be elevated using TENCEL™," said Amy Wang, General Manager of Advance Denim, noting the renewed interest in high-performance denim and skinnier jeans styles across the trade show.

Tapping into this evolving market trend, Advance Denim partnered with Lenzing and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei to create the LoopTy collection, which features biodegradable TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers [6] with ROICA™ V550, the first stretch fiber to achieve Cradle to Cradle Certified™ status [5], resulting in a high-performing, resource-conscious denim fabrication [3]. The collection features a high level of comfort, durability, and versatility across a broad spectrum of stretch denim applications while simultaneously addressing the environmental challenges posed by microplastic fiber pollution from synthetic textiles during wear and wash.

"Our collaboration with Lenzing and Advance Denim on the LoopTy collection has been successful, allowing us to shift from providing sustainable materials to a complete lifestyle concept that appeals to those seeking style and environmental responsibility [1]. We are pleased to receive positive market responses to LoopTy’s degradability, which is complemented by the benefits offered by Lenzing’s TENCEL™ [3] [6]," said Hiroaki Shinohe, Chief Marketing Officer of ROICA™ Europe at ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei.

Responsible Performance Meets Heritage in Denim’s Future

With sustainability remaining an integral part of Kingspins Amsterdam, Dennis Hui, Lenzing's Global Business Development Manager for Denim, also noted a growing focus on circular design, traceability, and transparency in fabric composition within the denim market today. As consumers around the world become increasingly discerning, the importance of transparency and education emerged during the tradeshow, especially when it comes to utilizing sustainable solutions and practices.

"Brands at Kingpins are embracing the innovative uses of Lenzing fibers more and more, appreciating their performance and versatility across applications," said Hui. "Partner mills also value our collaboration on trend-driven developments that expand the fibers' role in modern fabrications. Our fibers feature built-in traceability and transparency, so we offer creative and responsible solutions for today's denim market. [1] [3] [7]"

Next to various stretch levels and sustainable solutions, Kılıçkan also noted keen interest in fabrics that mimic the look and feel of 100% cotton, but offer the softness and comfort performance of blended fabrications emerging at Kingpins Amsterdam. "We are seeing a growing demand for comfort, versatility, and authenticity—products that are made to last, feel good to wear, and carry a clear identity." Many denim mills across the trade show, from Advance Denim to ISKO and AGI Denim, were seen leveraging this trend, incorporating performance and responsible fibers like LENZING™ ECOVERO™ or TENCEL™ to deliver fabrics with enhanced softness, comfort, flexibility, durability, and even temperature regulation. [2] [3]

Meeting the growing demand for functional yet authentic-looking denim fabrics, these fabrics, when combined with a simple wash, align with the current trend of clean, urban workwear. "Wide-leg styles, barrel cuts, balloon silhouettes, and relaxed fits in rigid or low-stretch denim are leading the women's denim market. In response, Lenzing is collaborating with mills to develop forward-looking concepts that broaden the use of its fibers across these trending styles," concluded Kılıçkan.

[1] To foster a sustainable global textile and nonwovens industry, Lenzing follows three strategic principles within the context of its “Naturally Positive” sustainability strategy, which focuses on greening the value chain, advancing the circular economy, and collaborating for systemic change with key industry stakeholders, such as Textile Exchange, Cascale, Canopy, Together for Sustainability, Renewable Carbon Initiative, and UN Global Compact.

[2] LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers produced with REFIBRA™ technology use cotton textile waste as a raw material, in addition to wood. The fibers contain a minimum of 20% recycled material, which is sourced from pre- and post-consumer waste. These cotton scraps could have otherwise entered landfills or been incinerated. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers produced with REFIBRA™ technology also meet the Recycled Claim Standard [Certified by Control Union Shanghai (CU1260548)].

[3] TENCEL™ Lyocell and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers are made with at least 50% less carbon emissions and water consumption compared to generic lyocell and viscose. Results based on LCA standards (ISO 14040/44) and available via the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (MSI) v3.10 (April 2025) by Cascale (formerly Sustainable Apparel Coalition).

[4] https://www.asahi-kasei.co.jp/fibers/en/roica/specialities/pdf/roica_ef.pdf

[5] https://www.asahi-kasei.co.jp/fibers/en/roica/specialities/pdf/roica_v550.pdf

[6] LENZING™ Lyocell standard fibers are certified by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable in soil, freshwater and marine environments, and compostable under home and industrial conditions. Please find out more at https://www.tencel.com/en/fibers/benefits.

[7] With a process in place that factors in rapidly evolving regulatory requirements when developing and updating claims, TENCEL™ provides claims and a Benefits webpage that offers value chain partners and conscious consumers more clarity on what its fibers offer.