2007 Fashion round-up
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The year began with the debate of banning underweight models from the catwalks and setting a minimum age and weight average, which sadly come to the fore after the unnecessary death of Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston. The British Fashion Council in January 07 stated: "We believe that regulation is neither desirable nor enforceable. What will make a difference is the commitment of the fashion industry to change attitudes through behaviour and education."
The debate did not lessen the high, nor did it stop size zero models on the catwalks, after Marc Jacobs announced he would show his Marc by Marc Jacobs collection during London Fashion Week whilst simultaneously opening his first UK boutique on Mount Street, Mayfair. A savvy move which brought the international press to the UK, but which did not go without its criticisms. Many thought it diverted attention from London's up and coming designers, who's shows and press coverage were overshadowed by the enormous budgets of an established house who dominated the headlines and who subsequently have no desire to show in the capital. For those fortunate to get hold of a ticket, Jacobs' show at Claridges was the high-point of a grueling season and his after-show party at the Connaught saw every credible celebrity and model in town mingle with fashion's elite.
Ethical campaigners left its mark on the industry in 2007 and suddenly every designer brand worth its wares began launching a sustainable line. From Gap's (RED) initiative to C&C California's luxury organic tees, Tesco's short-lived collaboration with Katharine Hamnett to Marks & Spencer's own Green label and Levi’s Eco Line. Jane Shepherdson joined the board at People Tree after a highly publicised exit from Arcadia and celebrity endorsement of organic, reusable, recyclable, renewable, fairtrade and anti-fur products were nothing if not common.
High street collaborations with celebrities saw an exponential rise in 2007, causing a stir amongst consumers, who flocked to the high street in droves. The launch of Kate Moss for Topshop, a carefully orchestrated campaign, caused havoc at its Oxford Circus branch where the supermodel made an appearance in its window. Philip Green later reported sales of the line was so successful, he announced the collaborating would continue the following season. Jane Shepherdson's departure was rumoured to be related to Moss' fees, though never confirmed by either party.
Other collaborations saw Giles Deacon and Lily Allen design for New Look, Kylie Minogue and Madonna for H&M, Roland Mouret for Gap, the launch of Justin Timberlake’s fashion label William Rast, Sienna Miller and sister Savannah Miller's label, Twenty8Twelve, Penelope Cruz for Mango and the launch of Sarah Jessica Parker's Bitten label. Not to mention the fusion between fashion houses, such as Luella and Giles for Mulberry, Eley Kishimoto for Cacharel, Balenciaga for Moncler, Tom Browne for Brooks Brothers and oddly Thomas Maier, creative director of Botega Veneta for Marc Jacobs. Every other week a new celebrity scent was launched with Eau de Kylie, Sarah Jessica, Kate Moss, J-Lo, Britney, P Diddy and Paris Hilton launching their self-styled scents. Not for the olfactory discerning consumer, we reported.
In April, value retailer Primark opened its first Central London branch in the former Allders premises on Oxford Street. The response from consumers was overwhelming: By 10am, the doors had been knocked off their hinges by eager shoppers, desperate to get hold of a pair of £8 jeans. By 11am, a floor manager had been knocked to the ground by the hordes, trampling all that was in their path in search of a £2 bikini. And by noon the queue to get in snaked all the way down Oxford Street to Marble Arch with a waiting time estimated at a couple of hours, reported the Guardian at the time. Whether or not the company adhered to strict ethical regulations, was something to be left desired.
Then there were the acquisitions, such as Tommy Hilfiger’s purchase of the Karl Lagerfeld brand, the sell-out of Liz Claiborne’s struggling portfolio, the stake-outs, such as Permira’s increase in Valentino, and the year Stella McCartney finally made a profit. It was also a year of difficulty for publishing giant Emap, the consumer publisher behind popular magazines FHM and Grazia, who saw a decline in circulation, drop in its advertising and also a slump in profits. The company lost its chief executive halfway through the year and later sold its business to business unit for £1bn to Guardian Media Group.
Monthly reports on the rising economic woes threatening the high street and warning of an imminent retail slump, which despite tougher trading on the high street, never really happened. Christmas sales boomed, with online profits reported as the highest in British history.
September fashion week brought Luella Bartley back to London, Vivienne Westwood announced she would show in February 08, Valentino took a bow after his last ready-to-wear show, Armani Exchange opened on Regent Street and PPQ's launch party at Maya was the most talked-about event of the week. The fashion industry knows a thing or two about throwing a party and there was no shortage of events in 2007. Chanel's traveling catwalk brought Karl Lagerfeld to London, along with his entourage of A-list guests. Vogue celebrated it's Vogue Italia publication at the Royal Academy, Moet & Chandon hosted their London Fashion Week ball, Vivienne West celebrated the launch of her Red label perfume on the Thames and Gareth Pugh enlisted Kylie Minogue for his aftershow party at BoomBox, the nightlife epicentre of London's creative youth culture.
And lest not forget the scandals, for there were plenty. The Observer in October revealed Gap commissioned Indian factories that employed underage workers spiraling into an investigation of the retailer in a child labour controversy. 2007 was also the downfall of models Sophie Anderton and Jodie Kidd who were allegedly caught using cocaine on camera, the former also admitting to being a high class call girl. Then there was the dubious practise of Tesco's sustainable line, who failed to promote their Katharine Hamnett line, and putting it only into 40 of its stores. The designer later pulled out, citing the company was more interested in appearing green than making a concerted difference. Burberry's closing of one of its last UK factories earlier in the year caused outrage amongst politicians, consumers and even royalty, where Prince Charles urged the House to reconsider its move.
And how about the trends? From Christopher Kane's minidresses to the return of neon, slogan t-shirts, ankle boots, American Apparel's eponymous silver leggings, Balenciaga’s futurist look, and the fashionista’s favourite new lalels, 3.1 by Philip Lim and Lanvin.
2007 was certainly an epic year for British fashion. But with a fleeting and often relentless calendar, there’s little time to stand back and look at an annual retrospective. London Fashion Week is just around the corner, you know.
Image: Agyness Deyn BFA