Sweden’s bi-annual fashion week has wrapped up and with it, it has left food-for-thought for the rest of the industry as it brought to light important subjects surrounding sustainability and the way we view fashion.
Much of the work displayed in this season’s Stockholm Fashion Week centred around slow, thoughtful production and circularity, with many brand concepts dedicated to reusing and innovative business models. Some brands moved outside the typical fashion industry structures and offered fresh takes on how to appeal to the modern-day shopper, while others looked towards new talent for their exhibits. Emerging names sat closely alongside that of more established brands that have become regular fixtures to the Scandi schedule, many of which have helped define the clean-cut, high-end aesthetic of the region’s fashion scene.
FashionUnited has outlined some of the most notable elements from Stockholm Fashion Week, from its support of upcoming creators to its ability to dismantle fast fashion production.
Reuse: circular fashion and recycled use
As expected, the sustainable mindset was prominent throughout the event, with many brands presenting innovative circular concepts as part of their presentations. The recently launched app Popswap was among those looking to promote a more eco-friendly fashion system, introducing its concept during a ‘Swap Cocktail’ event. Next to a panel discussion, during which the app’s founder Lin Kowalska, a H&M sustainability manager and fashion influencers discussed circular fashion, visitors could take part in swapping clothes with other participants - a physical version of the app’s concept. According to the company, a total of 600 garments were swapped during the event, with each tracked within the app.
In a statement shared with FashionUnited following the event, Kowalska said: “Fashion is like a global language - no matter where we are, our clothes always tell a story about who we are - and like a language, fashion is constantly changing. Explore Popswap during SFW set an excellent example of how we can work together to create a world where fashion is circular.”
Remake Stockholm also led the way for sustainable fashion in a line of completely one-of-a-kind garments made of materials gifted to Stockholm’s Stadsmission, for which the brand is a social enterprise. Designs, produced in the label’s local studio, depended on the accessibility of the materials and what they allowed, resulting in patchwork items and a playful mix of texture and colour.
Receive: emerging designers and industry support
Beckmans College of Design has become a regular fixture for SFW as it continued to uplift its students through the influential platform. For the AW22 season, the Hommage by Beckmans project saw 12 emerging designers create personal collections based on one of six well-known fashion brands. The result came in the form of contemporary, high-fashion looks that drew influences from fashion legacy in individual ways.
Tech-start up National Outfit Manufacturing Services (NOMS) also pushed small creators to the forefront of its digital presentation, during which it unveiled its first collection drop, Beta. The denim set, kimono set and t-shirt programme are part of the company’s on-demand order system, which utilises a network of micro-factories. Its new take on the fashion experience falls in line with the increasing demand for local production and the decentralisation of mass-produced high-end products.
In a release, the company’s co-founder and creative director, Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente said: “We have an organic perspective on the design process. The materials are defined by the supply of the moment, in the form of fabric leftovers that we source globally. There will be everything from functional garments to more advanced and expressive pieces.”
Re-establish: gender norms and fashion structures
Many Swedish brands took the opportunity to make a statement in regards to genderless fashion, with the likes of Stand Studio showcasing fluid collections. The design house presented its take on an “intergenerational wardrobe that crosses traditional gender boundaries”, as it stated in a note on the line. It looked to bring to life retro and staple pieces through an injection of youthful undertones, offering reimagined fur coats, puffers and car coats in playful, striking designs.
While some looked to dismantle societal norms, others looked to break down the typical fashion industry structures. Singular Society was among those that presented an alternative to fast fashion, presenting its subscription-based concept.
A letter from the brand read: “Singular Society is built on the idea of offering products as a service through a membership that gives access to uncompromised life essentials - at the price of what they cost to make.”
A hybrid presentation saw the brand’s co-founders, Eric and Daniel, talk about the membership concept and the importance it has on the fashion industry as a whole. Attendees could get to know the company through an invitation-only event, where they could get a further insight into Singular Society’s high-quality products and local services.
Return: established names and regular faces
Alongside the handful of emerging brands and independent designers, SFW also welcomed back its regular faces and established labels. Filippa K returned as one of the event’s mainstays, debuting a collection inspired by Scandinavian winters. The brand’s typical minimalist design was paired with exaggerated silhouettes and sparkling sequin details, presented in both menswear and womenswear displayed alongside each other. It was the first collection that featured Filippa K’s updated logotype and marks the final collection before it welcomes Liisa Kessler as its new creative director.
H&M was also present at the event and, while previously it has worked on immersive experiences and collaborations, this time it took to the runway to present its most recent H&M Studio collection for the SS22 season. Looks drew influence from Gen-Z style icons and retro fashion eras, resulting in eclectic designs, vibrant colours and statement accessories. According to a release from the retailer, much of the line was developed using recycled materials, keeping in touch with its sustainability values that it continues to uphold through its special collections.