All Eyes On Gucci

Gucci's new designer Alessandra Facchinetti was overwhelmed by the ovation for her debut collection in Milan yesterday. Stepping into the spotlight, the 32-year-old looked as slender as the models parading her curvaceous cocktail dresses, glamorous swimwear and intricate jackets. But Facchinetti is no novice in the fashion industry. As creative director of Gucci's womenswear, she is part of the triad that replaced star designer Tom Ford six months ago. Ford himself poached Facchiinetto from Prada and Miu Miu back in 2000.

Ford's design flair, showmanship and PR savvy carried Gucci from being a flailing leather-goods company to the world's third-largest luxury goods conglomerate in the space of a decade. In her 2005 spring-summer collection shown yesterday, Facchinetti gave Gucci a woman's touch with sari-style skirts wrapping the body in cascading layers, the edges left raw.

Slick-haired models went bareback in opulent satin cocktail dresses, heavily contoured around the bodice with thin cross-over back-straps. Studded croc-skin jackets were pared away around the neckline or sectioned and joined with organza. Daywear was missing from the show, with sexy eveningwear being Facchinetti's strong point. Following on from Ford is an impossible position but she rode it well. The look is still strong and sexy, with attitude.