Back to basics: The 'quiet' sophistication of the AW26 season

The autumn/winter 2026 season has concluded, leaving an unexpectedly quiet echo. After several cycles marked by sensational debuts from new creative directors and a near-constant rotation at the helm of luxury fashion houses, a calmer phase is now emerging. Many designers seem to have settled into their roles. This is reflected in collections that feel considered, are precisely executed and place a stronger focus on the craftsmanship and design quality of clothing.

This newfound clarity contrasts with a tense global context. The fashion season took place during a period of ongoing conflicts in Iran and the wider Middle East. The simultaneity can be jarring at times – an industry thriving on creativity set against a backdrop of geopolitical instability. The stance of many brands, which consciously opted against spectacle or provocation, is all the more remarkable. Instead, restraint defined the mood.

Wearability became a central theme without appearing arbitrary. Minimalist approaches remained present, yet were further refined and reinterpreted. Eveningwear found its way into daily life, while silhouettes were pared back without losing their expressive power. The tension was created primarily in the details. Jewellery-like elements elevated even understated looks, and a complex interplay of patterns, materials and surfaces added extra depth. The result was a season that sought balance while consciously leaving room for individual interpretation.

Key trends of the autumn/winter 2026 season from the ‘big four’

Checks

Checks are one of the few trends that effortlessly oscillate between tradition and subculture. Their historical roots and close connection to tartan and kilts are matched by an equally strong foothold in counter-cultural codes. Autumn/winter 2026 once again highlighted this versatility, not only in the looks themselves but also in the range of fashion houses working with them.

While Burberry is traditionally associated with checks and Daniel Lee consistently develops them, they are not the most obvious stylistic choice for French brands like Chloé or Rabanne. This makes their interpretations all the more exciting. Chemena Kamali translated the pattern at Chloé into a modern, feminine version on a pussy-bow blouse, while Julien Dossena at Rabanne combined a checked skirt with a turtleneck and a playful lace blouse.

‘Everyday trains’

Trains have long been clearly assigned to eveningwear. This season, they are increasingly breaking free from this strict classification. While they have not yet fully arrived in everyday life, they no longer require a classic ball gown. Designers are integrating them into more contemporary silhouettes.

At Khaite, Catherine Holstein combined a transparent top with slim-fit trousers and extended panels of fabric, while Prabal Gurung created a similar effect with a glossy red top. Sandy Liang interpreted the trend more playfully, suggesting that trains could work in everyday life in the future.

Floral brooches

Brooches have been making a comeback for some time, but this season they appeared in a more multifaceted way. Chanel remained true to its iconic camellia, which appeared in a softer, more textured version on a tweed two-piece. At Dior and Simone Rocha, however, floral elements seemed to grow out of the looks. They sat on shoulders or hips, lending the silhouettes a new, almost sculptural dimension.

Faux fur

Fur remains a controversial topic, but it has not disappeared entirely from the runways. Instead, it is being reinterpreted, often in the form of faux fur or abstracted versions. Alessandro Michele at Valentino opted for dramatic, floor-length silhouettes, while Demna Gvasalia at Gucci referenced classic, almost cinematically inspired models. Fur, or its visual equivalents, thus remains a defining element of the season.

Gothic

Gothic is an aesthetic that never completely disappears, but continually reinvents itself. For autumn/winter 2026, it appeared less sombre and more soft and romantic. Transparent fabrics, lace and flowing silhouettes dominated. Erdem interpreted gothic with an almost monastic, long black dress, while Dreaming Eli achieved a fragile, almost theatrical effect with corsets and delicate lace. Ann Demeulemeester remained true to her signature style, presenting a more restrained, poetic version with ruffles and structured layering.

90s minimalism

The revival of 90s minimalism can be traced back to timeless style references like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, whose look is currently receiving renewed attention thanks to the TV series Love Story. Both contribute to the current fascination with clean, understated fashion. On the runways of the autumn/winter 2026 season, this was evident in slim, body-conscious silhouettes and muted colour palettes at several fashion houses.

Calvin Klein presented a classic slip dress with a square neckline that captured the essence of 90s restraint, while Alaïa focused on sculptural minimalism, showing a precise, figure-hugging outfit in neutral tones. Gucci offered a slightly more expressive interpretation, combining the minimalist silhouette with more dramatic styling. This is an example of how the look can move between pure minimalism and a more staged version of the 90s and even the early 2000s.

Velvet

Velvet emerged as one of the key textures of the autumn/winter 2026 season, underscoring this year's focus on tactility. The fabric, often associated with eveningwear and historical clothing, was reinterpreted on the runways in modern, clean and wearable silhouettes. Instead of appearing overly opulent, velvet was used with restraint this season, with an emphasis on cut, clean lines and intense, rich colours.

At Calvin Klein, creative director Veronica Leoni interpreted velvet through minimalist tailoring, presenting an elegant black velvet suit, while Ralph Lauren drew on the material's more classic associations, showing a long, flowing velvet dress. Alaïa, in turn, opted for a sharply tailored velvet suit in a deep burgundy.

Striking textures

Texture is one of the few design elements this season that goes beyond the purely visual, instead evoking an instinctive, tactile response. The autumn/winter 2026 season amplified this focus on tactility and depth, with designers using materiality to shape not just garments, but the entire mood of a look.

Louise Trotter for Bottega Veneta focused on bold monochromes, where saturated red and feathers created a silhouette that was both playful and imposing. Erdem, under the direction of Erdem Moralıoğlu, offered a softer counterpoint with a cocoon-like shape crafted in delicate, painterly textures. Givenchy, under Sarah Burton, took a more eclectic path, combining a densely textured coat with clean, striking accents.