BFC comments on Model Health Inquiry

Hilary Riva of the British Fashion Council today sent an open letter to press regarding the Model Health Inquiry. The BFC and London Development Agency established the Model Health Inquiry in March 2007, in response to public concerns for the health of models on Londons catwalks and in the absence of a direct response from the modelling industry. When announcing its recommendations in September 2007, the MHI highlighted that the model population is vulnerable, that it is a global and transient workforce that comprises predominantly young adults who had no independent voice and was not regulated in any way in this country.

The only British recognised organisation representing the modelling industry at the time was the Association of Model Agencies (AMA) which works with fourteen established modelling agencies. The MHI outlined 14 recommendations to take forward within a twelve month time frame. It recognised that many of the recommendations fall outside the remit of the BFC which is an independent not for profit organisation set up to promote British fashion designer businesses to a global audience. The most challenging of the MHI recommendations is the Model Health Certificate (MHC). The Inquiry found that BMI (Body Mass Index) and weigh-ins were not an accurate or reliable measure to identify eating disorders, which are complex physical and psychological illnesses. It recommended that models should see doctors with expertise in the area of eating disorders. The proposal was that all models working at London Fashion Week would be assessed and then provided with a medical certificate which would offer independent proof of good health and offer a fit to work testimony, or not, and that these certificates should be internationally agreed and recognised. From conversations with international counterparts in New York, Milan and Paris it has become clear that they do not recognise the need for an international health certificate. All elements of the certificate were strongly resisted, as they were felt to be intimidating and intrusive nature of the questionnaires which form part of the assessment. Furthermore, the time which it takes to get the certificate is unworkable for models entering the UK to work at London Fashion Week. On average 84% of catwalk models working in London are not UK based, some of whom fly in just a few hours before a show. Models would find the cost of the certificate a prohibitive factor and financial barrier to working in London.

In summary Model Health Certificates are an unworkable solution based on concerns in principle and practicalities of implementation. The BFC now feels it has taken the enquiry as far as it can within the remit of its organisation as it claims to not be a regulatory body and has limited access to resources.

Fashion is a large industry in the UK. It is not limited to catwalk shows and catwalk models; it spans many sectors including media, advertising and retail which have greater exposure to the general public. The British Fashion Council urges the organisations representing these industries to join us in encouraging and promoting a diversity of image and body shape.

Image: Skinny catwalk model