Burberry associations

Wearing a classic Burberry raincoat, Humphrey Bogart strolled nonchalantly into Rick's Cafe in Casablanca. But that was in 1942. These days, however, he would probably be turned away at the door.

One female oil worker was aghast when she was banned from a restaurant/bar in Aberdeen for having a distinctive check designer umbrella and handbag. She said last night: "I was going for a drink with my husband at around 10.20pm on Saturday and was told I couldn't get in because I was wearing Burberry.

"The door staff said Burberry was associated with soccer casuals, but there's no way I resembled that. I was furious because I was dressed perfectly smartly. It was a Burberry handbag and umbrella, for goodness sake." The Filling Station could be accused of taking its ban too far by most people's standards. Yet efforts by Rose Marie Bravo, the brand's chief executive, to make the label more accessible may be fuelling a Burberry backlash, as an increasing number of bars, restaurants, and nightclubs across Scotland ban its designs.

Previously aspirational, the brand has evolved into an anarchic uniform adopted by football hooligan culture and other troublemakers. Like Aquascutum, Evisu, and Stone Island, Burberry has fallen foul of tribal hijacking - the moment when a brand becomes the badge of belonging to a particular group that is not part of its target market.

An internet joke doing the rounds described a Burberry-clad Mini Metro as the ultimate car for Glasgow neds.

Alan Bannerman, owner of the Phoenix bar in Dundee city centre, said: "I fully appreciate where other publicans are coming from. If a young man walks in with a shaved head and a Burberry cap and shirt, I wouldn't think twice about whether he was trouble. I believe I speak for at least 90% of pub owners in Dundee. Burberry has become the badge of thuggery." Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, in 1856. The signature check began as a lining for his ivory trench coats, which are still a best-seller today.

Once viewed as rather traditional and stuffy, the fashion house is now a catwalk regular. Celebrity wearers include Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, and Robbie Williams. However, there is evidence the brand is creeping into overkill and the realm of street wear with gangs of youths favouring the Burberry baseball cap. Doll's pram, cot, and high-chair sets in an imitation of the check can be bought at Argos.