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Can cleavage really ever be ‘in’ or ‘out’ of fashion?

By Vivian Hendriksz

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Fashion |OPINION

London - Although fashion magazines try to lead the way when it comes to enlightening their readers on what is currently ‘in’ and ‘out’ of fashion, sometimes their trend forecasting can miss its mark. Take British Vogue for example, who asked in its December issue if cleavage was ‘over’ and highlighted its absence from the fashion spotlight this year.

"Whatever happened to the cleavage?" asks editor Kathleen Baird-Murray in an article entitled Desperately Seeking Cleavage, while highlighting the distinct lack of perky, pertinently push-up breasts in fashion this year, ranging from the runway to the red carpets. The former rounded form of breasts, usually squished together to resemble buns and brought on by the rise of the push-up bra and wonder bra seems to have disappeared from the fashion landscape this year, in favour of a more natural, relax form. Necklines have been raised once more to the collar bone and higher, with off the shoulder, pussy bows and bow-line styles being favoured by designers ranging from Gucci to Sonia Rykiel.

Vogue heralds the death of the cleavage - but can a women's body part really be 'dead?

Rather than show too much décolletage, designer labels have “sent out girl after girl with legs, midriffs and cut-outs on show,” this year, reports Vogue, as an alternative way to demure reveal some flesh. “The tits will not be out for the lads. Or for anyone else, for that matter,” writes Baird-Murray. Data shows that women have increasingly been moving away from padded, push-up bra styles in favour of more natural look, as sales for soft bras without underwire at online luxury retailer Net-a-Porter now account for a third of all bra sales. Other lingerie retailers from Victoria’s Secret to Aerie and Elle MacPherson have released styles including unpadded triangle bras (with no underwire) and bralettes over the last year.

Not a cleavage in sight at backstage at Miu Miu's SS17 show

The shift in bra style choice over the last year has also been linked to consumers changing preference, who prize comfort and function in their undergarments more than ever. “Comfort is a dominant theme throughout the fashion world, and today’s bra consumer, especially Millennials, is seeking both physical and personal comfort,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst, The NPD Group, in a recent report on Sports bras. “The characteristics and simplicity of sports and seamless bras are a natural fit in this comfort-focused environment, while providing more fit flexibility and ease of shopping… seamless bra styles are increasingly top of mind for consumers of all ages.” NPD Group also reported sales of traditional bras have declined 19 per cent as consumer seek out more comfortable alternatives, furthering highlighting the shift in shoppers bra choice.

Choosing comfort over a former ideal of what women’s breasts are meant to look like suggests that women are moving away from sexualised notions linked to the displaying of cleavage and embracing their natural forms. However, the opening sentence of Vogue’s article choses to reaffirm the sexualization of the cleavage: “The cleavage – those magnificent mounds pushed together to display sexual empowerment, to seduce, to inspire lust or even just to show off – is over, or at least, taking a well-earned break.” Many people online, as well as myself, find Baird-Murray notion that cleavage “displays sexual empowerment” or is just there to “show-off” alarming and harmful.

Just because a women happens to have cleavage should not have to indicate she is using her body to make a point - women’s body parts are not fashion accessories and the sexist idea that when a women displays her legs, or arms or shows cleavage means she is out to prove her self-worth is outdated. What’s more, suggesting that women who naturally have larger breasts, and therefore cleavage, are somehow now outdated and not ‘in’ fashion is just as harmful as suggesting women who have smaller, perkier breasts should have larger, well rounded “mounds” pushed together to accompany or finish off their outfit.

The self-proclaimed fashion bible has been known to make sweeping statements, but to try and declare a women’s particular body shape out of fashion, or to imply that cleavage is merely a fashion trend, only asserts the sexist notion that women’s body parts always have to mean something. By declaring cleavage is out, Vogue is inadvertently telling women with larger breasts that they have no place in fashion right now, and that they should cover up their girls by all means, instead of encouraging them to embrace their bodies. However, we should not be surprised by Vogue’s sudden standpoint on cleavage, as other readers online point out, this not the first time the fashion magazine tried to dedicate body-types in fashion:

Personally, I do not think it is up to designers, brands, retailer, magazines or stylists to dedicate what female body parts are ‘in’ or ‘out’ of fashion, or if it is fashionable for a women to show her cleavage. Part of fashion's function is to allow its wearer the freedom to express themselves however they wish - with or without cleavage - and that is something that even Vogue cannot take away.

Photo 1: Victoria's Secret, Facebook

Photo 2: Aerie, Facebook

Photo 3: Miu Mius SS17 show backstage, Facebook

Photo 4: Elle MacPherson Body, Facebook

Photo 5: Victoria's Secret, Facebook

Photo 6: Wonderbra, Facebook

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