British designer Daniel w. Fletcher opened London Fashion Week's SS23 season with a poignant one-minute silence to honour the passing of her majesty Queen Elizabeth II. This solemn pause was followed by an all-black morning suit, cut from British wool and worn with a singular armband. It was an elegant and wonderful trubite to prortray the current national mourning.
Fletcher, who rose into the spotlight in Netflix's 'Next in Fashion' series looked to characters of London for spring/summer 2023, with everyone from footie fans to Saville Row tailors to yesteryear punks and button-clad Pearly Kings and Queens inspiring his co-oed collection.
The first looks from the ‘Stand and Deliver’ collection placed a spotlight on London's suiting heritage, with influences feeding in from naval uniforms to Sixties gents in Prince of Wales check. This saw sharp-shouldered tailored pieces alongside slouchy silky pyjama sets, satin tie-collar shirts and rowing blazers.
Daniel w. Fletcher pays homage to London for SS23
He also presented an alternative flair on daytime suiting with country kilts spliced to the hip and wrapped in faux fur, while other tailored pieces, from trousers to shorts were paired with corset-style vests, referring to his SS19 collection or with vibrant check bomber jackets.
Fletcher was also inspired by the splendour of London’s nightlight with leather blazers, satin cummerbunds, and dresses delicately embellished or featuring sexy cut-out detailing. Looks were also styled with jewellery from Hatton Labs for added bling.
This season also showcased customised shearling bags in partnership with Axel Arigato. The SS23 collection also marks Fletcher's most sustainable to date as he worked entirely with deadstock fabrics through Nona Source, the platform that sources waste fabrics from LVMH houses to be repurposed elsewhere.