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Designers playing on proportions and the male body at New York Fashion Week: Men's

By Kristopher Fraser


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Artistically, there's always been an appreciation for the male form. However, when it came to designing clothes, the male form was traditionally restricted to suiting for most of modern times. Now, designers have decided that the male form shouldn't be treating so simply, and are playing with the proportions of clothes to show that clothes on men doesn't need to look so boxy.

First off, there was Garciavelez who created elongated t-shirts, but emphasized men's arms and shoulders with slouchy jackets. Designer Carlos Garciavelez focused the theme of his collection around the idea of decaying infrastructure in the contemporary American city.

Playing on the idea of decay, seams were exposed and edges were emphasized wrong, making each piece like wearable infrastructure. It was a whole new way to think about promotions in clothes, and a particularly original idea for the up-and-coming designer.

Silhouettes are taking on new proportions at New York Fashion Week: Men's

N.P. Elliott emphasized the male form with things like houndstooth wool mix boxer shorts with side seam pockets and striped wool mix racing back tanks. Proportions were also played with as they presented items like straight leg drawstring pants in wool mix houndstooth and mandarin collar printed shirts that brought attention to the neck.

A photo posted by N-p-Elliott (@npelliott) on

Robert Geller was all about proportions, shapes, and movements. The inspiration for the collection this season was Genial Diletanten, which translates to Genius Dilettants, which was the title of a 1981 concert.

A black floral print cupro jumpsuit put emphasis on the length and proportions of the male form, specifically arms and legs. Pants were baggy at the crotch and jacquard sweaters had free silhouettes paired with brightly colored pants that created interesting layers and shapes to the outfits.

Magenta and black t-shirts were two tone taped creating a bit of a trompe-loeil affect, which is unusual for men's wear, but kept Robert Geller one-of-a-kind.

The award for most improved designer goes to Brett Johnson, who really took his collection up a notch this season. This time around, he made his collection refined and easy, yet understated.

The lineup #brettjohnsonco #ss17 #NYFWM #cfda

A photo posted by Brett Johnson Co. (@brettjohnsonco) on

The reimagined silhouettes ,which proposed suiting options for the millennial man, looked far more expensive, and finally gave him that look of a luxury brand.

Johnson used textured fabrications to inject movement into garments, and reimagined outerwear styles in relaxed cardigan silhouettes. The take on proportions will help him appeal to the millennial customer who is looking for something more relaxed.

The era of men's wear with mundane silhouettes has ended. Designers are taking advantage of silhouettes and shapes in as many ways as possible.

photos via Nouveau PR and C&M Media

Brett Johnson
N.P. Elliott
New York Fashion Week Men's
Robert Geller