Düsseldorf: Fashion metropolis struggles against relegation

The trade fair location Düsseldorf is currently in bad shape. This becomes obvious by the mere fact that the CPD is now the only event organised by the trade fair association Igedo while the number was four not too long ago. They included HMD for men’s wear, the sourcing fair Global Fashion and Bodylook, Germany’s leading fair for lingerie and swimwear. The latter was taken over by Igedo in 2006 and relocated from Leipzig to Düsseldorf. The discontinuation of the fair was decided last autumn; HMD and Global Fashion are also history. Düsseldorf’s attempt to establish a platform for denim and sport’s wear with WEARe failed as well. After Bread & Butter decided to relocate from Berlin to Barcelona, Igedo hoped to occupy the newly available niche. However, after its debut in February 2008, WEARe was discontinued due to a lack of interest.

In fact, the heart of Germany’s clothing industry was beating at the Rhine River for a long time. After Berlin’s flourishing fashion industry was destroyed by the National Socialists and World War Two, Düsseldorf became the new fashion centre of the young republic in the post-war era. As early as in 1949, clothing manufacturers united to form the “Interest Group for Women’s Outer Clothing” („Interessengemeinschaft Damenoberbekleidung“, Igedo) and organised the first street fashion show. Igedo subsequently made a name for itself as organiser of fashion fairs. As a matter of fact, its show in Düsseldorf was at times the largest fashion convention in the world. The fair which has been known as CPD (Collections Premieren Düsseldorf) since 1982 continues to be the flagship of Düsseldorf’s clothing industry. However, CPD has lost its status as most important fashion fair in Germany by now. In fact, in the run-up to the current edition taking place from 7 to 9 February, its survival was questioned.

At least with the return of Bread & Butter to Berlin, the weights in the German trade fair landscape have fundamentally shifted. With the renowned denim fair and the more refined Premium, which just celebrated new visitor and exhibitor records, the capital succeeded in attracting two heavy-weights poised to grow further. In addition, various smaller special fairs managed to establish themselves there in the meantime. The pressure of time has risen to such an extent that the extension of the fashion week is being considered.

Munich also continues to establish itself as trade fair location, albeit without the dramatic media coverage accompanying the developments in Berlin. Aside from Ispo, the world’s largest fair for sporting goods and sport’s wear, the successful fashion shows of Munichfashion.company and special events such as Munich Fabric Start helped strengthening the position of Bavaria’s state capital.

In contrast, Düsseldorf is struggling against relegation. With organisational restructuring and ever new concepts, Igedo is desperately trying to defend its position. The figures don’t look good. For example, just 519 exhibitors are represented at the CPD this winter, a fraction of what the fair was boasting in its heydays. As well, the brand portfolio does not really contribute to its appeal. It is too obvious that CPD owes its past successes to being a fair for medium-sized specialist shops which have been on the retreat for years in times when chains are heavily expanding. It is noteworthy that the offshoot of Berlin’s Premium, “Premium Order Düsseldorf” of all things is simultaneously exhibiting its clearly more exiting labels in the state capital of North Rhine-Westphalia.

However, Düsseldorf continues to be an important fashion location thanks to the large number of showrooms accumulated in the area over the years, attracted by the significance of the CPD. In this respect, Düsseldorf continues to be the leader compared to Berlin or Munich. Initiatives to network the companies and institutions represented on site were recently considered as a logical consequence. Igedo too is now seeking the collaboration with the showroom operators. And so Düsseldorf is expected to remain an important factor in the German fashion business in the foreseeable future, even though the competing locations Berlin and Munich are flourishing and the flagship CPD is reeling.

Contributed by our correspondent in Berlin