Duffles, khaki, and a splash of sunshine: the street style of Pitti Uomo

In fashion, January not only marks the beginning of a new year but also sets the tone for the seasons ahead as Pitti Uomo returns to Florence. Long regarded as the unofficial starting point of the menswear calendar, the fair once again gathered the international fashion crowd at the Fortezza da Basso.

Pitti Uomo has traditionally been celebrated as a showcase for sartorial excellence, classic tailoring, and the unmistakable presence of the well-dressed menswear purist. Yet, the notion has shifted in recent years. The era of overt peacocking continues to fade, replaced by a more restrained approach to personal style. This year, while tailored coats, wool suits, and heritage fabrics remained a constant, the most compelling looks were defined less by full outfits and more by the details woven into them.

Rather than following the conventional route of spotlighting classic menswear archetypes, FashionUnited has chosen to shift the focus to six small but telling details that have subtly crept into the Pitti Uomo street style scene so far.

Buttons reimagined

Traditional tailoring remains a pillar at Pitti Uomo, where sartorial excellence will always be celebrated. Yet this season, a subtle irregularity has emerged. While a suit lapel may not seem like the most obvious place for experimentation, the gentlemen at Pitti Uomo proved that a traditionally tailored jacket with a fresh take on buttoning might just be the way forward this season.

Here comes the sun

While Florence is traditionally known for its sun-drenched charm, even this Italian city cannot command the weather. This year, true hints of sunshine—or at least a welcome source of light – were scarce, emerging instead through the yellow accents scattered across fairgoers’ outfits. From subtle details to bold statements, these flashes of color cut through the grey skies, offering a symbolic brightness and injecting optimism into the atmosphere despite the lack of actual sun.

Patch-work

Street style at Pitti Uomo thrives on detail, and this season it was the playful use of patches that truly stood out. Rather than relying on classic patterns or logos, many looks were adorned with fabric pieces, embroidered motifs, and sewn-on badges that appeared almost improvised, evoking the charm of handcrafted DIY work, collector’s patches, or playful personalizations stitched onto jackets, coats and even jeans.

A hint of bohemia

Boho has long been linked to womenswear, particularly in the early 2000s, yet this year it seems to have evolved, bringing a touch of folklore to the fairgrounds at Pitti. Folk-inspired scarves, patterns, and knits appeared throughout the crowd, seamlessly integrating with everything from sharp tailoring to relaxed, casual ensembles.

A new coat in town

This season, the duffle coat seemed to quietly dethrone the fair’s usual favorites—the double-breasted blazer and classic trench. Appearing in soft neutrals and long checkered versions, it was worn over both tailored and casual looks, blending timeless practicality with a modern, street-ready sensibility.

All things khaki

Khaki has long been a staple at the fair, and this year was no exception, particularly in outerwear. The earthy hue proved especially beloved when paired with flashes of yellow, catching the eye of fashion-forward attendees – and even four-legged visitors, who seemed just as drawn to its camouflaging charm.