The right-wing turn the Netherlands took in the elections on 22nd November did not escape anyone's attention. The fact that Geert Wilders' party, PVV (Partij voor de Vrijheid), emerged victorious with 37 seats (for now), is being noticed all over Europe and even reached US media. It is therefore no surprise that Dutch trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek started his trend seminar for SS25 with this topic.
“Everything I'm going to say will seem irrelevant because of this. But it is not,” stressed Van den Hoek. Indeed, he sees a movement emerging that is looking for more, more, more. The trend that emerged during the corona period, where we were getting rid of stuff like crazy, is no more. Everything has to be bigger again. But, is that still possible? Is there still more? Or, should we just be content with what we have?
We are falling into old patterns, Van den Hoek concludes. To deal with this, he offers tips based on trends. His trend story is divided into four major themes, with revaluation, artificial intelligence, technology and seduction playing the leading roles.
Edwin van den Hoek on SS25: Goodbye throwaway culture, hello upcycling
The first theme is called 'Handmade' and calls attention to upcycling garments, buying second-hand items and using deadstock. We do want nicer, bigger, more expensive items, but what if we can find something even nicer in what already exists?, Van den Hoek asks. The message is clear: we need to get rid of throwaway culture and revalue what we have.
In clothing, this translates into items made from deadstock or reused materials. Here, patchwork is characteristic, where individual parts are brought together to form a whole. The beauty of ripped jeans returns and this trend extends to knitwear, which will increasingly show gaps and holes. In addition, there is room for embellished garments.
Within the ‘Handmade’ trend, we will not only revalue the garment, but also express our appreciation for different cultures. „We want to connect with the people who make our products,“ according to the forecaster. It manifests itself in big graphics on clothes. The work of designer Chulaap is an example.
A menswear trend for SS25: Graphics, playful and candy colours
Whereas during the corona period we adhered to Marie Kondo's tidying method, which consists of clearing, throwing away and organising, and strived for a minimalist life, the time has now come to pull out all the stops. The inner child is resurfacing according to Van den Hoek.
In the ‘Artifical’ theme, this manifests itself in ‘childlike graphics, intense colours reminiscent of toys, and pastel shades. It is a theme the forecaster can imagine translating to shore concepts too.
To give an example of fashion brands that already have this trend as part of their history, we dive into the archives of Louis Vuitton and Moschino. Louis Vuitton is known for block prints, which are telling for this theme, combined with intense colours. Gucci and Moschino have shown good examples of the graphic trend.
Menswear SS25: Ergonomics and new shapes
For the ‘Advanced’ theme, Van den Hoek takes his crystal ball and dives into the future. „In this trend, we will explore what technology can bring us,” he says. And the industry is already working on that. For example, QR codes are being developed for clothing tags, which allow one to access all information about a garment. In other words, transparency plays a big role. We are also looking for new materials that can be extracted from algae, bacteria and fungi through new technologies. The time has now come for the experimental phase to give way to increasingly concrete concepts.
Something else that can be seen within this theme is that brands are starting to elaborate and show their view of the future through AI-generated shopping concepts or garments. This manifests itself in outfits that look futuristic and ergonomic. The garments will more often be designed with programmes where one can design in 3D, says the trend forecaster. “People are going to design around the body, so that ergonomics are clearly reflected.” Typical of this trend is the presence of the balaclava and mouthpieces and the creation of new silhouettes, such as the cape. As for colours, there will be mostly light, neutral colours.
“What also characterises this theme is the way we look at materials in terms of how to make them as functional as possible,” says Van den Hoek. Within fashion, cargo pants will evolve into ‘multi-multi-pocket’ pants. “Useful for all the men who often put their wallet, phone and keys in their pant pockets," jokes the trend forecaster. Not only pants will feature multi-pockets, jackets and body warmers will also come with lots of them. Accessories also play a big role in this trend. Belts, for instance, are transformed into ‘work belts’.
Edwin van den Hoek: “We will borrow clothes from each other”
The last theme builds on a trend that was also seen in the presentation for FW24. The blurring between male and female silhouettes receives renewed attention in 'Seductive'. Van den Hoek again emphasises that not all men will soon be walking in skirts, but that the possibility is there. "We will borrow clothes from each other's wardrobe," he says. For example, this trend uses lace, previously seen as a feminine fabric, but also features ajour work and mesh fabrics. In addition, the shirt with a deep V-neck is gaining ground. It may be clear that showing off the male body is central.
To visualise this trend, let's take Dior and Dsquared for instance. Dior, for example, delved into its womenswear archive to put together a men's collection for the coming seasons. It results in collections that contain feminine tones, but are definitely tolerated by men who like a little something extra.
Flamboyant men are not forgotten in this trend either. Thus, garments with beads, sequins and glitter from the women's wardrobe do not go unnoticed by men. This, combined with moulage, pleats and ruffles, finishes it off. "Everything that was first seen for women is now also for men," concludes the trend forecaster. Thus, the tie gives way to a dainty scarf.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.nl. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.