Fall/Winter 2027/28 Trend Report: Controlled Audacity in an Age of Agency

The fall/winter 2027/28 season (FW27/AW27) answers an overcast zeitgeist not with escapism but with presence: familiar codes made personal, opulence without apology and comfort engineered into the cloth. A FashionUnited trend report on the key 2027 fashion trends for buyers.

I. Executive Summary: Familiar Codes, Made Bold, Define FW27

The fall/winter 2027/28 season arrives in a climate forecasters describe in strikingly similar terms. WGSN and Coloro frame their AW27/28 colours as a response to ‘a global polycrisis’ and the consumer's need for stability and orientation. Christine Boland calls the zeitgeist ‘heavily overcast’: ‘People are numbed by world events and simultaneously being overtaken by AI.’ Jan Agelink titles his entire forecast Age of Agency, because freedom of choice and self-determination are under pressure from technology: ‘It is about control, influence and the right to shape things yourself.’ The Directions Trend Committee behind the Intertextile Shanghai trend book reads the moment the same way: ‘We live in a condition of constant alert, where disillusionment with the future grows.’

Yet FW27 is not a season of retreat. ‘It's not escapism’, but according to Christine Boland ‘Fashion is becoming fashion again, and that is very exciting.’ Five overarching themes recur across the forecasts gathered here. ‘Agency’ sits at the centre: consumers reclaim control through personal styling, craft and choice. ‘Regrounding’, Boland's term, describes a return to presence, attention span and handwork, ‘everything AI cannot do’. ‘Fashion Becoming Fashion Again’ marks the counter-reaction to AI-driven homogenisation, visible in the many faces of maximalism. ‘Rediscovered Skills’ captures Première Vision's finding that innovation now means reviving traditional techniques with new yarns and machines. And ‘Hidden Performance’ describes technology disappearing into classic cloth. Première Vision's deputy fashion director Ariane Bigot sums up the season in two words: ‘controlled audacity’.

II. Core Trend Narratives for FW27

This report brings together selected AW27/28 forecasts from trend forecasters, textile specialists and industry sources. It organises these signals into three editorial narratives: Remastered Familiarity, Dramatic Presence and Soft Armour. These narratives are our synthesis of recurring themes across the sources, rather than official categories shared by every forecaster. The overarching themes of agency, regrounding and controlled audacity run through all three.

Narrative One: Remastered Familiarity

(Heritage codes, layered and made personal)

Core Concept

The broadest and most commercial narrative of the season. Boland expects it to be the movement she sees most: ‘It is very much about seeking stability in tradition; think of the blazer, the skirt, trousers and the suit. It hints at the traditional and classic, but the way it is combined makes it unique and individual.’ Her trend name is Individual Familiarity: Boland expects familiar items with an innovative twist to have commercial potential. Edwin van den Hoek's ‘Creative’ theme in menswear arrives at the same point, with traditional styles such as preppy ‘given a contemporary look by combining classic items with unexpected layers’. In footwear, Trendstop's Lamia Molato highlighted that ‘one of the keys to this season will be connecting the past with the future, transforming vintage codes into contemporary designs’.

Cultural Drivers

Agelink's Age of Agency positions personal expression as a counter-movement to technology's growing influence. His ‘messy aesthetic’, with pockets deliberately filled with personal objects ‘from lipstick to love letters’, is ‘about a messy, spontaneous aesthetic where imperfection is deliberately sought’. Première Vision confirms the material side: ‘What is new is not necessarily what has just been created, but also what we are rediscovering.’ And Boland warns against the trap of pure retro: choose one hue and make it pop, otherwise it just becomes nostalgia. Even camouflage fits. As FashionUnited’s camouflage analysis notes, the woodland greens and browns of classic camo now function ‘almost like neutrals’, while conservator Sarah Scaturro has observed that the print tends to reappear outside military contexts during periods of political instability.

Target Consumer

The ‘Modern Individualist’: a classic customer in the mid-to-premium segment who buys a blazer, suit or check skirt for its longevity but wants the styling to say something personal. Boland's advice to retailers is direct: ‘However classic your client is, inspire them to try these kinds of combinations.’ On the street, Van den Hoek sees this consumer styling for themselves: ‘people are consciously thinking about it themselves, rather than having a whole styling team or commercially driven idea behind a certain look.’

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: Mustard-like shades, browns, copper-bronze and the 70s greenish-brown; rich olive and spinach greens; aubergine and historic pastels. One accent, a ‘blue cheese blue’ or Yves Klein blue, where the look needs it.
• Key Items: The blazer, the suit, the skirt and trousers; Prada's long-sleeved shirt under a jacket with lace peeking out; marl jumpers in olive and copper-brown (for brands like No Man's Land); suede in a 70s brown; camouflage recoloured on a pleated skirt (6397) or in shearling patchwork (Fendi).
• Textures: Rich jacquards (Gucci), metallic finishes (N°21), hand-knits and intricate weaving. From the fairs: felted worsteds, Shetlands, Harris tweeds, tartans and workwear denim (Intertextile Shanghai, ‘Live Your Emotions’); pinstripes, herringbone and glen checks (Milano Unica, ‘Classic is Punk!’).
• Styling: Layering, as at Prada, where models walked again with one layer less each time; ‘bohemian beyond borders’ folklore mixes (Etro); four types of check in a single garment; in menswear, the turtleneck–shirt–waistcoat–jacket stack with fur collars (Dries Van Noten, Ami Paris, Feng Chen Wang).

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Narrative Two: Dramatic Presence

(Opulence, volume and the right to take up space)

Core Concept

The season's statement narrative fuses two of Boland's trends. Dramatic Antidote seeks ‘beauty, seduction and wonder’ in heavy times; Boland quotes Dries Van Noten: ‘The only answer to these times is beauty.’ Neither waits for an occasion. ‘Why wait for a party to dress up?’ Boland asks. Unapologetic Presence demands space, physically and mentally, viewed through Jeff Koons' lens of ‘Here I am’ and ‘look at me’.

Cultural Drivers

Boland interprets Dramatic Antidote and Unapologetic Presence through a political and social lens, connecting them to debates about women’s roles, misogyny and self-expression. She reads Unapologetic Presence as ‘women reclaiming their role in a world where misogyny is rearing its head and a phenomenon like the tradwife movement can exist’. A second driver is AI fatigue. FashionUnited's maximalism analysis argues that maximalism ‘is here to stay’, quoting designer Harris Reed: ‘Maximalism as I see it is not just about adding more, but revealing more.’ The textile trade confirms the shift. At Première Vision, the AW27/28 selection ‘turned out to be silkier and more influenced by eveningwear codes than the teams had anticipated’.

Target Consumer

Plural by design. On one end, the ‘Glamourati’ consumer of what consultant Sean Monahan calls the ‘boom boom’ aesthetic: bling, spectacular volume, fashion ‘designed to be seen’, best expressed by Alessandro Michele at Valentino. On the other, the professional woman Moschino's Adrian Appiolaza portrays in skirt suits with lace panels and ruffled broad-shouldered blazers. In between sits the kidult, raised on Y2K, buying playful graphic knitwear and regressive charms. In Boland's reading, the most opulent expressions are not suited for every customer, and Unapologetic Presence is a liberating viewpoint that consumers still need to be convinced of.

Visual Mood Board

• Palette: Creamy white, head-to-toe ‘sensual black’, gemstone colours and historic prints in subdued tones; beige, antique rose and petrol blue with matte gold, bronze and antique silver. Against that, the bright primaries, frog green, Yves Klein blue and fuchsia of Unapologetic Presence.
• Key Items: Lace-filled deep V-necks with statement necklaces (Valentino); all-over lace (Saint Laurent); court-like skirts (Margiela); skirt suits with lace panels and ruffled broad-shouldered blazers (Moschino); Loewe's teddy-bear coat with ears, Christian Siriano's patent leather dresses and Max Mara's chick-yellow fur coats.
• Textures: Sturdy velvet rather than faux silk, bronze buttons rather than plastic, gold-thread embroidery; brocade, lace and satin. From the fairs: patinated brocades, moiré and damask (Intertextile Shanghai, ‘Play Your Role’); lamé tweeds, sequin-embroidered tulles and metallic velvets (Milano Unica, ‘Romance is Punk!’).
• Styling: Sculptural pleats, funnel necks and built-up shoulders over slim trousers; round-cut waists (Jil Sander) and padded shoulders (Carven); grunge-cut black tops with tulle (David Koma); dressing up without waiting for an occasion.

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Narrative Three: Soft Armour

(Hidden performance, nature and sensory comfort)

Core Concept

The third narrative is the most coherent across the fabric forecasters: protection and comfort engineered into the material rather than displayed on it. At Première Vision, ‘performance is not necessarily shown anymore; it is hidden within the material’. A jacket ‘can therefore have the appearance of a classic suit while offering the performance of technical clothing’. Van den Hoek's ‘Protected’ theme brings bigger jackets, trousers and down pieces that weigh almost nothing: ‘It looks very big, but it is very light to wear.’ His ‘Secluded’ theme adds the escape to nature, outdoor activity and quiet travel.

Cultural Drivers

Three forces converge. First, digital fatigue: Boland's diagnosis that ‘we become alienated from ourselves and from others; we lack a shared truth and a connection with nature’. Second, Agelink's ‘neuroaesthetics’, where designers engage scent, sound and touch to deepen the experience. Third, a structural market shift: Première Vision points to the ageing of a segment of the population, ‘likely to seek more softness, flexibility and ease of use without sacrificing elegance’. Sustainability is present but has moved into the product: thermoregulating wool instead of synthetics, natural dyes, repairable shoes. ‘The future is also about freeing ourselves from all-synthetic materials and solutions that are predominantly derived from petrochemicals,’ a Première Vision expert notes.

Target Consumer

• The ‘Urban Retreater’: a city professional of any age who wants a coat that performs on the commute and looks like tailoring at dinner, values touch and warmth over logos, and expects longevity. In footwear, the AEC/Trendstop trend ‘Style without sacrifice’ describes the same customer: one who expects ‘innovation, functionality and comfort’ without compromising aesthetics. Visual Mood Board
• Palette: Grey as the base, from asphalt grey and steel (Agelink) to greyish-blue (Première Vision); sand, beige, brown and cognac with army-to-bright greens (Van den Hoek); tinted whites and veiled neutrals (Intertextile Shanghai, ‘Feel Your Serenity’); cool blue and moss green as ‘glitch colours’.
• Key Items: Oversized technical outerwear (Dior Men under Jonathan Anderson); padded windbreakers; Prada's ‘parka-style jackets with a kind of hood attached to raincoats’; classic-looking suits in citywear suitings with waterproof, breathable or windproof membranes; comfort footwear with sock-like constructions.
• Textures: Heat-fused padded structures without stitching that stay waterproof; faux fur and teddy; fur printed photographically on nylon (Mordecai); mosses, wool sponges and brushed woollens, with nature evoked ‘less through pattern and more through touch, volume and the material itself’; rubberised peach skin, furry pile, plush blanket and cozy fleece (Intertextile Shanghai).
• Styling: Volume without weight; hairy collars and hoods; Agelink's ‘glitch meets nature’, with pixelated checks (Acne Studios) and digital-print stockings (Kiko Kostadinov).

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III. Product-Specific Trend Analysis

Colour Palettes

FW27's colour story is led by WGSN and Coloro's five key colours: Luminous Blue, their Colour of the Year 2027, plus four seasonal key colours chosen from a palette of over 3,500 shades. ‘As we continue to live in a time of unpredictability and uncertainty worldwide, consumers' emotions and feelings play a crucial role in colour choices for AW27/28,’ says Clare Smith, senior colour strategist at WGSN.

• Luminous Blue (Coloro 125-28-38): WGSN and Coloro's Colour of the Year 2027, carried over from SS27 into the AW27/28 key colours.
• Russet (Coloro 013-30-24): a warm reddish-brown of autumnal landscapes and ripening fruit, conveying stability and confidence.
• Peaceful Lilac (135-78-11): a soft lilac with a slightly futuristic effect, a deliberate counterpoint to the season's darker shades. Maize (036-65-23): a radiant yellow for joy and optimism, versatile across materials.
• Deep Green (082-30-14): an alternative to black with ‘mysterious, almost natural depth’.

These are joined by:

• Earthy and warm tones: Boland's mustard-like shades, browns, copper-bronze brown and the 70s greenish-brown; Van den Hoek's sand, beige, brown and cognac; AEC's caramel, cinnamon, chocolate, sienna and apricot for leather and artisanal materials. Milano Unica reports neutral and warm shades across its selection.
• Neutrals that are no longer neutral: Première Vision's key observation. Grey becomes greyish-blue, khaki leans towards taupe, green or copper, and navy can become turquoise or purplish. Grey remains a base for Van den Hoek (even in store interiors, as at Stone Island's Milan pilot store) and Agelink (asphalt grey, steel). Light shades come as creamy white (Boland), wool white, warm white, antique white and very light blue (Agelink), echoed by Intertextile Shanghai's ‘tinted whites and veiled neutrals’.
• The violet family: Première Vision puts violet ‘centre stage’, worked in chiaroscuro against cool yellow lights, alongside plums, dusty pinks and mauves. Boland's aubergine has secured its place (‘here to stay’) and pairs with celadon blue; AEC lists berry reds and mauves for leather. Pink and mauve are becoming gender-neutral, according to both Première Vision and Van den Hoek.
• Black itself returns as Boland's ‘sensual black’: not gothic, but ‘a refined beauty with a dark undercurrent’. Alternatives to black: Deep Green; Première Vision's tinted off-blacks, plum and deep red; AEC's technical black and petrol green.
• Accents on a calm base: A recurring colour idea, applied differently per direction. Within Individual Familiarity, Boland sees a ‘blue cheese blue’ or Yves Klein blue as accent, ‘though you would choose one or the other’, and not every look needs one: a marl jumper in olive and copper-brown ‘does not need a blue accent at all’. Unapologetic Presence goes the other way, with frog green, Yves Klein blue, fuchsia and bright primaries allowed to clash, and colour blocking returning. Van den Hoek pairs a subdued base with ‘a single bold colour, such as almost fluorescent green, bright blue or an acid-like yellow hue’. Agelink adds tangerine green and ‘savvy red’ as contrast colours, plus cool blue and moss green as ‘glitch colours’.
• Concept palettes: Intertextile Shanghai's ‘Feel Your Serenity’ (tinted whites, cozy pastels), ‘Live Your Emotions’ (timeless natural colours) and ‘Play Your Role’ (rich couture hues). Milano Unica assigns burgundy to ‘Classic’, vibrant tones to ‘Freestyle’ and greens and yellows to ‘Romance’.

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Fabrics, Materials & Innovation

Materiality in FW27 is defined by rediscovered skills, eveningwear richness and performance that no longer needs to be seen.

• The wool return: Première Vision positions wool as the natural answer to thermal comfort. Long, delicate fibres, ultrafine yarns and tightly knit fabrics make it ‘lighter and softer, offering a feel close to silk or cotton’. The concrete revival is the separable double-faced woollen, ‘a high-end weaving technique that allows for invisible finishes and the creation of reversible garments’, now returning ‘in more varied qualities and weights’. Milano Unica's Biella-led ‘Classic’ selection confirms it with double-faced wool and cashmere, flannels and cashmere fleece; Intertextile Shanghai adds felted worsteds, Shetlands and Harris tweeds.
• Eveningwear codes in daywear: Satins, crushed velvets and wool blends lead the Première Vision selection. Boland's Dramatic Antidote calls for brocade, lace and satin; Milano Unica shows glossy-matte satins, duchesse, lamé tweeds, sequin-embroidered tulle and velvets with metallic reflections; Intertextile Shanghai lists moiré, damask, matelassé and patinated brocades.
• Hidden performance: Citywear suitings with waterproof, breathable or windproof membranes, three-layer fabrics and bi-stretch materials (Première Vision). Heat-fused fabrics that create padded or inflated structures without stitching while staying waterproof (Van den Hoek). Milano Unica's ‘Freestyle’ adds ripstops, technical linings and ultralight nylon; Intertextile Shanghai proposes techno taffetas and rubberised peach skin.
• Tactile nature: Mosses, wool sponges, brushed woollens and fur effects (Première Vision); faux fur and teddy (Van den Hoek); furry pile, plush blanket and cozy fleece (Intertextile Shanghai); teddy, bouclé and faux fur with lurex inserts (Milano Unica).
• Surface and heritage: Tapestries, jacquards and nomadic influences ‘where historical and geographical references intersect’ (Première Vision). Gucci's rich jacquards, metallic finishes at N°21 and intricate weaving in bags (Boland). Milano Unica applies lace and macramé to unconventional bases such as chenille, wool, leather-effect fabrics and bi-stretch mesh.
• Denim specifics: Milano Unica's selection shows flocked, lamé, coated, embroidered and dark heavyweight denims, plus laser-cut printed denim trims. Intertextile Shanghai lists workwear denim within its heritage theme.
• Leather, refined: Van den Hoek sees leather moving from the jacket or bag into details: a shirt, a collar, a patch pocket. Milano Unica shows coated leather-effect and suede-effect fabrics.
• Eco-innovation focus: Van den Hoek reports natural dyes from tea, coffee, corn and tree bark, whose limitations ‘actually produce a richness of colour gradations’. Première Vision is candid that leather alternatives (bio-based polymers, reduced synthetics/PU, hemp, brushed alpaca) remain niche, with ‘a considerable gap between their actual market weight and the amount of communication surrounding them’.

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Silhouettes, Shapes & Key Items

FW27 silhouettes move volume from the legs to the shoulders and make big shapes light to wear.

Womenswear:

• The wider upper body: After years of ever-wider trousers ‘across the entire gender spectrum’, Boland sees the upper body widening: 80s shoulders, a broad chest, over narrowed trousers or skirts. WGSN observed ‘a modern take on power dressing, with a distinctly 80s feel’, with structured shoulders, defined waists and tapered trousers. Boland notes the shape is already trickling down: Zara shows ‘the first experiments with Carven's rounded shoulders’.
• Sculptural statements: Sculptural pleats in sturdy fabrics, funnel necks, round-cut waists (Jil Sander), padded-shoulder tops (Carven), oversized fur coats (Saint Laurent), teddy-bear coats (Loewe).
• Opulent dressing for day: Skirt suits with lace panels and ruffled broad-shouldered blazers (Moschino); all-over lace (Saint Laurent); court-inspired skirts (Margiela); head-to-toe black.
• Key items: The blazer, the suit and skirt suit, the broad-shouldered coat, the reversible double-faced coat, the camouflage bomber or parka, the marl jumper, thigh-high patent boots (7 For All Mankind), and the leather belt worn low on the hips (Chanel).

Menswear:

Van den Hoek's four themes (Elegant, Protected, Secluded and Creative) are ‘different directions that can coexist’. Jackets, trousers and down pieces grow ‘increasingly larger and more voluminous’ without added weight. Layering becomes a silhouette in itself, especially at the neck: turtleneck, shirt, waistcoat, jacket. Fur and hairy materials frame collars. Leather appears as a refined detail. Agelink adds Prada's raincoats with parka-style hoods and padded windbreakers.

• Gender-fluid:
  

Skirts, very wide shorts that almost read as skirts, aprons and flowing transparent fabrics enter menswear, led by Asian brands from Japan, China, Korea and Taiwan and seen at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus (‘Black Hole’). Van den Hoek is realistic: ‘I don't believe that if you stand on the ferry here in Amsterdam-Noord, you will suddenly see all men wearing skirts. However, I do believe a shift is taking place.’ Pink and mauve, says Première Vision, are reaching menswear and even junior sweatshirts.

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Prints, Patterns & Graphics

FW27 prints are heritage codes remixed, distorted or clashed rather than invented.

• Checks, multiplied and distorted: Four types of check in a single garment (Boland: ‘You can already see this on young women in the street.’); pinstripes, herringbone, glen checks and houndstooth (Milano Unica ‘Classic’), recoloured at micro and macro scale (‘Freestyle’); woollen checks and tartans (Intertextile Shanghai); pixel-like, glitched checks at Acne Studios (Agelink).
• Camouflage, recoloured: Woodland camo as a neutral, but also distorted, enlarged, softened and recoloured, from floral and astral to digital interpretations (camouflage analysis). Examples run from Antonio Marras' abstract camo patchwork to Kiko Kostadinov's painterly bark-like weave.
• Heritage and folklore: ‘Bohemian beyond borders’ mixes that cannot be traced to a single culture (the art, in Boland's view, is to bring references together without naming them, so there is no cultural appropriation); historic prints in subdued tones (Dramatic Antidote); tapestry jacquards (Première Vision, Intertextile Shanghai); ethnic-inspired jacquards with lurex (Milano Unica ‘Romance’).
• Surreal and digital: Fur photographed and printed onto nylon or silk-like fabrics (Mordecai, via Van den Hoek); digital, pixelated patterns on stockings (Kiko Kostadinov); gradient and animalier prints (Milano Unica).
• Playful and clashing: Florals alongside leopard in Copenhagen's ‘Scandi-cool’ maximalism; kidult knitwear ‘adorned with whimsical faces and delightfully regressive animal motifs’; naïve embroideries and padded floral prints (Intertextile Shanghai).

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Accessories

• Footwear: AEC and Trendstop, presenting after the Futurmoda supplier fair (over 4,100 professionals in Elche), name four directions. ‘Style without sacrifice’: stretch fabrics, embossed jacquards and sock-like constructions, with 3D printing and hybrid materials integrated subtly. ‘Durability and repair’: interchangeable layers and replaceable parts, as in Camper's six-piece Roku shoe, assembled without industrial glue, and Veja's in-store repair services. ‘Sensory design’: micro-relief and quilted surfaces. ‘Reinterpreted nostalgia’: 70s and 90s references with micro-heels and imperfect finishes. Van den Hoek adds shoes that look voluminous but weigh little; Boland points to thigh-high patent leather boots.
• Bags: Intricate weaving as surface interest (Boland). The kidult charm continues.
• Jewellery and embellishment: Large earrings and statement necklaces for Dramatic Antidote; embellishments in gold, bronze and antique silver, ‘preferably in matte finishes rather than high-gloss’.
• Belts and scarves: Leather belts worn in unexpected places, just below the hips (Chanel); Sacai's scarf with button details, styled over a crisp shirt.
• Watches: Agelink highlights watches as styling devices, with straps used as scarf ties or on tops, after the Zomer show built around La Watch Party.
• Trims: Milano Unica's trim selection shows horn, corozo, mother-of-pearl and bio-based polyester buttons, oxidised metal pulls, chains and recycled leather labels.

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Styling Directions

• Layering by construction: The season's most repeated instruction, from Prada's shirt-under-jacket looks to Van den Hoek's neck stacking. And the cluttercore ‘happy mess’ of vintage, local craft and technical pieces.
• Accent where it counts: Calm bases lifted by a bold accent. Van den Hoek proposes a single contrast colour in menswear, and Boland uses one accent within Individual Familiarity, while Unapologetic Presence lets brights clash.
• Proportion inversion: Wide shoulders and chest over slim trousers or skirts.
• Dress up without an occasion: ‘We don't wait for a party for these kinds of outfits,’ says Boland. The attitude is part of the look.
• Deliberate imperfection: Agelink's messy aesthetic, with pockets filled with personal objects and watch straps repurposed.
• Quiet luxury, with a twist: Boland calls quiet luxury ‘a fundamental movement that is here to stay’, now inflected with ‘a different lining, piping or even a specific colour’, as at Celine under Michael Rider.

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By holding familiarity and audacity together, fashion executives can build FW27 collections that feel both reassuring and alive, for a consumer who, in Agelink’s reading, is reclaiming agency: ‘control, influence and the right to shape things yourself’.

The FW27 trend overview executive article, based on previously published articles, was created by AI. FashionUnited uses AI tools to read and research large amounts of data. For this article over ten trend articles and two trade fair trend documents (Milano Unica and Intertextile Shanghai for FW27) were used. This AI trend summary was spot checked by a human desk editor. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com.

Sources and related reads:

• WGSN and Coloro name Luminous Blue colour of the year 2027
• WGSN and Coloro: Key colours for autumn/winter 2027/28
• Spotted on the catwalk: The WGSN autumn/winter 2027/28 colours
• Comfort, sustainability and nostalgia: AEC's key footwear trends for AW27
• Christine Boland on AW27 fashion: 'It's not escapism, so what is it?'
• Watch parties, glitch and layering: AW27/28 according to trend forecaster Jan Agelink
• In Pictures: AW27/28 trends through the lens of Christine Boland
• Glamourati, Kidult, Scandi-cool: Exploring the many faces of maximalism
• SS27/FW27 trend prediction: Why camouflage keeps coming back
• Première Vision Paris: What fabrics reveal about AW27/28 trends
• Menswear trends for fall/winter 2027/28: volume, lightness, and nature
• Click here for our entire FW27 fashion trends page