For its 58th edition, São Paulo Fashion Week shows more consistent and sophisticated collections

Fernanda Yamamoto's fashion show at the Japanese Pavilion in Ibirapuera Park concluded the 58th edition of São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW+N58) last week, which was divided into shows at high-end shopping mall Shopping Iguatemi; the Pavilion of Brazilian Cultures at Ibirapuera Park; and special locations across São Paulo. This edition, titled 'The Jewels of the Queen', paid tribute to Brazilian journalist, editor, and creative director Regina Guerreiro, who was at the centre of an exhibition curated by Renato de Cara at the entrance of the pavilion.

In this season, the runway of various SPFW shows, following a path already established in previous editions, consolidated the use of “handmade", showcasing a matured, sophisticated fashion that seems ready to conquer new horizons. Below are some of the trends that stood out, elevating the level of the presentations.

Crochet, lace, and embroidery

Crochet was the highlight of the season, featuring prominently in the entire collection of Ponto Firme, a brand led by Gustavo Silvestre, during an outdoor show at the Museum of Ipiranga. Silvestre's team, composed of former inmates, refugees, and trans individuals from vulnerable social backgrounds, worked with crochet interspersed with metallic sequins and others made from plastic waste, offering luxurious effects.

Crochet also appeared in the bikini, top, and beach bag from Heloisa Faria, as well as in the long dress of Sou de Algodão, which featured fabric appliqués in an overlay garment. Brazilian brand Led presented a patchwork of weaves in different shades of blue in one of the showcased pieces. The technique further served as the foundation for the Ateliê Mão de Mãe collection of dresses, skirts, and tops, and appeared on the runway of Catarina Mina, which used soutache instead of thread. Crochet details were also incorporated into a Salinas bag, accompanying a top made from the same material, while at Santa Resistência, they were featured in a shirt with a wavy knit and soft stripes.

Lace, whether handmade or industrial, featured in David Lee's collection, who, famous for his use of crochet, opted for Rendendê, an embroidery that resembles lace. Similar work appeared in one of Angela Brito's dresses, while the lace effect was further evident in beachwear pieces from Sau.Swim, through a bias weave stitched onto mesh. Apartment 03 showcased a strappy dress over a mesh material, worn by actress Zezé Motta.

Embroidery, sometimes in fringes of beads, as shown by Walerio Araújo, or in thread or even wool, starred in several items, such as the embroidered flower sweatshirt on Martins' runway. Carioca brand The Paradise embroidered the legs of jeans with colourful sequins, while Artemisi brought forth crystals in dresses and overcoats. The denim patchwork in Amapô's shirt took us back to the 1970s and, elsewhere, embroidered patchwork was present on the runway of Lino Villaventura's show. Fuxico, a technique using small pieces of fabric to create circles, was illustrated in Foz's collection, appearing as flowers in organza, offering unusual volumes in dresses and boleros by Lucas Leão. Dendezeiro, on the other hand, used tapestry in a top to create pieces rich in texture.

Reflections of the past

The sense of nostalgia reigned throughout the collections. In the case of Ricardo Almeida, the collection was inspired by the charm of the countryside in the 1980s and included silk shirts in vibrant shades of orange, green, and blue, matching trousers with shirts that had relaxed silhouettes. The denim patchwork in dresses and jackets from Amapô evoked the 1970s, while Neriage explored the free spirit of the 1970s with a collection featuring mini-dresses, flared pants, and wide-brimmed hats. The floral prints at Carlos Miele celebrated the 1990s, contrasting the collections of 4.5, where there were strong references to 1980s rock, with leather jackets, ripped jeans, and layered fabrics.

Ethnic influences

Ethnic influences were prominent, notably with Lino Villaventura, whose pieces integrated references from different cultures, including Native American and African, creating a colourful and bold collection. Angela Brito also drew on her Afro-Brazilian heritage, creating stunning pieces that showcased the beauty of traditional African textiles, incorporating textures and prints reminiscent of her roots. The brand Mooc was another to touch on African influences, showcasing colourful and vibrant designs, focusing on sustainability and fair trade.

In conclusion, SPFW+N58 not only highlighted the innovation and creativity of Brazilian designers but also celebrated the rich tapestry of cultures and histories that shape the nation's fashion scene. With a focus on sustainability and ethical practices, the event showcased a bright future for fashion in Brazil, where tradition meets modernity, and local artisanship shines.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.BR. It was translated to English using an AI tool called Genesis and edited by Rachel Douglass..

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