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Glenn Martens presents debut collection at Diesel

By Ole Spötter

22 Jun 2021


Image: Glenn Martens by Oliver Hadlee Pearch

Glenn Martens is showing his first collection for the denim brand Diesel, which is part of the show calendar for the Milan Men's Fashion Week for the first time.

Diesel SS22

The digital presentation for the brand, which belongs to the Italian fashion group OTB SpA, is divided into four scenes. The viewer follows the main character - who wakes up from a dream - from a house party onto the street, then into an elevator and into a red landscape reminiscent of Mars. At the end the red-haired woman wakes up again at the party like in the opening scene ... blurring the lines between reality and fiction. The creative director, who reconstructs Diesel's denim and thus opens a door to a new world for the label, as well as plays with illusions. Jeans in various cuts and washes, denim coats and accessories such as bags and belts.

Images: Diesel SS22

Martens' design meets diesel denim

Martens' willingness to experiment and play with silhouettes is evident in the men's and women's collection. To do this, the Y / Project designer picks up on Diesel's denim legacy and interprets it with his deconstructive approach: Jeans go straight into boots and trousers have extra pockets, colored inserts and a wide variety of washes. There are also overlaps with the Paris label Y / Project, where Martens is pursuing a similar approach - just maybe with less denim. For the collection, the designer also upcycled old fabrics from the brand and gives them a new life.

In addition, the label starts with Diesel Library. The jeans concept was introduced for SS22 and consists of gender-neutral basics that are said to be particularly durable.

Between it-girls and cowboys

The denim approach meets an aesthetic between 90s sportswear, cowboys and it-girls of the early 2000s. Layering and styling play an important role. A belt meanders through various tops and dresses, holding them together and thus distorting the shape of the clothing. The collection is rounded off with extensive labeling, in which the Diesel-D was placed on handbags, shoes and trousers.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE, translated and edited to English.

Images: Diesel SS22