In Pictures: The first Dries van Noten show without Dries

It was the moment everyone knew was coming: The first Dries van Noten show without the eponymous designer taking a bow at the end. Van Noten wasn’t entirely absent, however, as he had been subtly present to support the design team, various media reported prior to the event.

The designer announced his retirement earlier this year, and in June, he took a bow at the end of a runway show for the last time. The womenswear collection that was presented during Paris Fashion Week was therefore designed by the studio team, but reportedly approved piece by piece by Van Noten.

Many of his well-known signatures - colourful fabrics and rich textiles - were recognisable. The strong silhouettes and colour contrasts felt familiar, yet new. Still, there were a few items that stood out, and perhaps even felt out of place. There were slip dresses, visible lingerie and several blouson jackets. At other brands, these items might not have stood out as much, as they fall in line with current trends, but at Dries van Noten, they felt less obvious.

It signals that the studio team has looked at trends on the street and translated them into the brand’s heritage in their own way. Whether this is the way forward for the brand, will likely become clearer during upcoming shows.