Item of the week: the varsity jacket

What it is:

A trademark garment of the American college jock, the varsity jacket, also known as a ‘letterman’ jacket, dates back as far as the 1930s. Often used as a sports uniform, the jacket has now cemented its place in the fashion world, alongside the signature appliquéd symbols that frequently adorn the piece. The style has regularly featured throughout pop culture over the years, from being donned in films like Grease and The Breakfast Club to making appearances in current tv shows or in the wardrobes of celebrities, like Tyler, The Creator. Typically, the look consists of a panelled body, with contrasting coloured sleeves, embroidered with patches referencing schools or, in this case, brands. Matching striped collars and sleeve hems bring the item together, also in tones that complement the overall colour scheme.

Why you’ll want it:

Varsity jackets have become a staple in consumer wardrobes, as the style continues to frequently return to the height of fashion. The current rise in popularity is partially due to cultural appearances the jacket has made in recent months, with displays in popular television shows such as a Gossip Girl reboot and Netflix’s Sex Education. And the popularity appears to continue to grow. According to a report by the Gazette, searches for varsity jackets have increased from 12,100 in August 2020, to 90,500 in August 2021 - a remarkable 648 percent increase. Additionally, the jacket itself often expands beyond gender boundaries, appealing to any customer who wishes to sport the look. With many designers implementing the design into their SS22 collections, it seems as though the jackets popularity will only rise, as it continues to jump from season to season as a relevant and inclusive outerwear piece.

Where we’ve seen it:

A major trend for the 2021 autumn/winter season, the varsity also made multiple appearances throughout SS22 runways. While Burberry and Y/Project presented their own iterations of the style for the ongoing period, a whole host of designers provided an array of varsity inspo for SS22. While Dolce and Gabbana plastered the jacket in its signature colourful prints, Hermés took a rather laid back approach, presenting a retro-inspired look with subdued colourways. Others, such as Moschino and Dior, stuck to conventional college references, with oversized patches and staple varsity details within their own design notes. Similarly, Louis Vuitton also stuck to the varsity details, presenting a bold yellow piece with large appliqués, designed by the recently passed, Virgil Abloh, for the labels menswear line.

How to style it:

As a genderless outerwear piece, the varsity jacket allows the wearer a lot of room to experiment with their style under the piece. To keep it simple and casual, the item can be paired with baggy jeans and a hoodie for a relaxed look. Alternatively, the jacket does leave room for layering options. Drawing cues from Tyler, The Creator, a customer could sport the style with loose fit chinos, a knitted sweater vest and t-shirt, adopting a twist on the typical preppy references the jacket is often associated with. For a more feminine look, pair it with a short dress that consists of colours that resemble that of the jacket in question. Complete the outfit with Converse, in keeping with the retro college roots, or infuse an element of grunge by adding some lace up ankle boots.

The popularity of the varsity jacket cannot be denied. It’s continued rise in demand is only confirmed by regular on-screen appearances and seasonal runway features, making it an impactful piece that continues to influence retailers’ offerings. With styles and designs appealing to any gender, it transcends conventional categories, making it an inclusive addition to a line that continues to remain relevant over its entire lifetime.