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J. Mendel does Art Deco for resort season

By Kristopher Fraser

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Fashion

Art Deco has long brought inspiration to the fashion crowd, and this resort season was no exception. For Resort 19, Gilles Mendel, creative director of J. Mendel, combined the disciplines of the art deco period with modernist styles to encapsulate the luxury that J. Mendel is known for. The usual red carpet ready pieces and fine mink furs were in abundance.

The collection also drew inspiration from Anna May Wong films. One of Mendel’s goals this season was to have his ready-to-wear essentially speak the same language as his furs. This resulted in silhouettes that were more ephemeral as he wanted to do something light an airy. The fur pieces were done in colorful zigzag patterns, clearly reminiscent of Art Deco.

In terms of structural details, micro-pleating, zigzag stitching, and drop waists were the statement makers for the collections. There was a delicate balance between maximalism and minimalism here, as the colors were mostly very approachable with shades of pink, brown, orange, and blue, but there of course was that sense of lux glamour and how can you not say maximalism with an intarsia mink cardigan.

The looks were very Alexis Carrington from “Dynasty” played by Dame Joan Collins. You know the type of woman? The jet setting socialite of the 80s era who always looked like a million dollars.

This collection also reminded us of something that has been lost to fashion: the idea of high-day wear. Daywear shouldn’t just be work clothes or your casual Saturday outfit. It’s another opportunity to present yourself at your finest.

To help sell this idea, Mendel did his own translation of denim which turns up in terracotta and was paired with jean color wave stripe patterned canvas jacquard mink trimmed trench coats with wide leg pants.

Despite the blending of daywear and evening wear pieces together, the collection was undeniably harmonious. It covered all aspects of what a resort collection should be from your lunch day at the hotel to your evening parties.

photos: courtesy of the brand
J Mendel