Knitwear and sequins: mastering the art of contrast by Evelyn Steinbach
Frankfurt/Munich - Material makes all the difference. This statement applies to many things, but it is especially true for fashion this autumn and winter. A particularly wide variety of materials is currently on display.
Velvet, brocade, jacquard and lace define the new collections. Wool flannel is also a key feature.
“The fabrics will be found in all collections,” says Sonja Garrison, a style consultant from Frankfurt am Main. They are timeless and comfortable to wear as a suit, blazer, skirt or dress.
Leather also remains a key theme, from blazers and jackets to capes, coats, skirts and dresses. “Those who like an extravagant look can opt for an all-over style, combining both a top and trousers or a skirt in leather,” says Garrison.
Stefanie Trevisan, a materials expert at the Academy of Fashion & Design (AMD) in Munich, also highlights tweed, denim, plush, corduroy, faux fur and wool. Fashion is regaining its opulence. Typical shapes include blazers with peplums and corset-style tops, as well as details like flounces and ruffles.
Combining with skill
This winter, the appeal lies in the play of contrasts. “We are seeing leather, fur trims, often faux fur, lace, mesh, sequins and chunky knits being boldly combined,” says Juliane Gareis, a style consultant from Dortmund.
Pleated velvet trousers might feature a lace or mesh insert. Leather jackets have (faux) fur trims and chunky knits are paired with sequins. The basic rule is: coarse with fine and matte with shiny.
“Contrasts between different surfaces create tension,” says Stefanie Trevisan. She gives the example of combining leather with long-haired animal fabrics like alpaca or cashmere, or alternatively with faux fur.
The mix works particularly well when materials from different origins come together. Trevisan explains that an ornately decorated, handcrafted top can be paired with a futuristic piece, or a blazer with tracksuit bottoms. “The more freely I combine, the more I find my individual style.”
Anyone who wants to combine skilfully should also pay attention to the cuts. These determine how materials appear. Voluminous knitwear pieces are, after all, very different from slim-fit knitted items.
According to Gareis, one can follow this rule: “With a wide top, choose a narrow bottom and vice versa, to keep the figure defined.”
Proper care
Sonja Garrison advises against combining different knitwear pieces. “If knitted fabrics are not identical, but also not obviously different enough, it looks like a half-hearted attempt.”
The practical aspect is that “twinsets have become fashionable again in the last year – a set consisting of a cardigan and a knitted top or T-shirt made from identical knitted fabric.” With these, you can hardly go wrong.
In any case, it is important to remember that without proper care, many materials quickly lose their appeal. “Fluffy knitwear is trendy and timeless. However, they quickly start pilling,” says Garrison. “These are the small bobbles that form in areas of high friction.” It is best to remove them regularly with an electric fabric shaver.
With corduroy and velvet, you should also look for good craftsmanship: “The pile of corduroy and velvet quickly flattens in areas like the elbows, seat and knees, creating shiny patches.”
Proper ironing also protects the clothes. “Real and faux leather should be ironed on the lowest setting, without steam, only on the reverse side and with a cotton cloth for protection,” says Garrison. “Velvet and plush, on the other hand, should only be gently refreshed with steam. Gently brush over the shiny areas with a soft clothes brush to make them disappear.”