Let's Go Dutch
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Has the time finally come for Dutch fashion design to come out of the closet? Is it ready to be launched in the global stratosphere of all things fashion? The Dutch have long been cast in the shadows of their Belgian neighbours - due in part to the Dutch government not funding nor providing a platform for young designers to nurture their talent and launch collections as is the norm in Belgium, where design is recognised as an art and viable export commodity.
Take Antwerp for example, where in recent years the city has positioned itself as a unique fashion capital and pioneer of design talent, such as the Antwerp Six. Designers like Dries van Noten, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester made their debut in the late eighties, taking their collections on the road to London and Paris , and are currently rated amongst the world's most successful designers. Add to that that they didn't feel the need to defect abroad - bar the odd fashion show - they have all kept their design studios, stores, showrooms and headquarters in Antwerp .
In the fickle world of fashion, however, there is such a thing as overload, and with new and up-coming Belgian designers arriving at the international fashion scene en masse (Veronique Branquinho, Jurgi Persoons, Christian Wijnants to name a few) the attention seems to be subtly shifting to that of its Dutch neighbour, where a new fashion movement has quietly been creating its own buzz.
In recent years, Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf made furore with their much-coveted mens and womenswear ready-to-wear collections. Their career, however, only took off when the pair left for Paris , the couture capital of the world. Whilst their creations were well received by the Dutch press, it was Paris that gave them credibility and international recognition. US Vogue editor Anna Wintour would never have featured V&R on the world famous glossy pages had they continued designing for a handful of Dutch fashionistas. Amsterdam may be notorious amongst world-travellers as a must-see destination, it is rarely regarded as a fashion capital. Notably not even by the Dutch themselves.
At present, a small collective of talented and wilful designers are silently taking over where Victor & Rolf left off. The Dutch Fashion Academy in Arnhem, one of the most revered institutions in the world and often dubbed the Central Saint Martins of The Netherlands, is churning out designers who are wanting to conquer the global world of fashion. No longer content with designing conceptual garments more fitted for gallery exhibition than wearable, the new generation of designers seem to weave the spirit of Dutch design with what is contemporary and globally appealing.
In Amsterdam , where the city's third season Fashion Week was hosted last week, it was evident that Dutch design is worthy of an international catwalk audience. Up-and-coming ready-to-wear designers Percy Irausquin (the new Roland Mouret) Jan Taminiau, and Daryl van Wouw showed collections that previously belonged to a unique Dutch elite, like Victor & Rolf, but are now ready to enter the heady world of international fashion. Casual brands such as Mexx, Blue Blood and Mansharey are making a global impact, but for high-end and commercially appealing design, the Dutch were previously overlooked. Until now. New manufacturers are signing up Dutch designers fast and furious, and with the Dutch Fashion Foundation promoting its homegrown talent in New York , Paris and Milan it is only a matter of time before Amsterdam will be regarded as the new Antwerp .
Watch this space, as we predict from next season some of these designers will be found in your favourite stores and gracing the covers of your favourite magazines. It's time to go Dutch.