LFW: Ramon Gurillo AW10

On Friday Spanish designer Ramon Gurillo presented his Autumn Winter ’10 collection "Where the Birds Always Sing" during On|Off at London Fashion Week. Presenting a collection of sumptuous, spidery and chunky knitwear, Gurillo finds inspiration in the Cure’s ‘Bloodflowers, and like the band mixes a post punk elegance to his technically, intricate designs, and his sculptured knits harbour a hint of romance with his cocoon-like, signature shapes.

Defined by style over trend, and craftsmanship over production numbers, Gurillo’s clothes prove a heady mix of dark undertones, grunge references and a couture-like sophistication. Using only the finest fabrics; hand-spun wools, mohair, cashmere and luxurious merino, the AW10 collection plays with the idea of conceptual layering, blending deconstructed, open-weave designs with solid and textured separates, juxtaposed by the detail of an elongated sleeve, a coat fringed with loose strands, or a feather-light dress as delicate as a spider’s web.

Gurillo’s cobweb silhouettes are nothing if not versatile: understated and elegant, modern and sexy, the clothes are always fluid and the perfect example of what is timeless chic.

True artisan qualities are rare to fashion, yet Ramon Gurillo’s Mediterranean heritage is key to his success: traditional Valencian roots are augmented by a cosmopolitan outlook, from travels to London and Japan, but always show his exquisite ability for construction, and each garment is always made by hand - some taking anything from three days to three weeks to execute to perfection. Gurillo somehow manages to keep the craftsmanship without exorbitant pricetags, and instead appeases affordable luxury, of his artisan, beautiful designs, even if only produced in small quantities.

Image: Ramon Gurillo AW10