LN-CC Buyer: Someone needs to shake up menswear

Eshaan Dhingra is a buyer for the British luxury fashion retailer LN-CC in the menswear designer and contemporary sector. In addition to the international fashion weeks, he also travelled to Berlin Fashion Week this season. In this interview, he reveals his favourite labels that showed in the German capital, SS25 trends and why he thinks menswear is currently at an impasse.

Which brands particularly inspired you in Berlin?

Gmbh has always been a brand at the forefront of the Berlin Fashion scene, they continue to stay true to their roots whilst still being able to push their political narrative. As they are the obvious answer, I would also like the highlight Marie Leuder and Sia Arnika. Two brands that have been able to carve their own aesthetic to complement the existing stars in Berlin.

In addition, are there certain brands that we should keep an eye on?

Right now, is a particularly tough time for emerging brands to exist in the market but there are always the few that manage to stand out despite the circumstances. One of my current favourites is Greg Ross who we have recently started to stock at LN-CC.

What trends do you see for SS25?

The trend cycle is far less volatile as it used to be – with the current access to constant information, it almost seems as if everything has been trending for the last few seasons. Some new trends that I have particularly noticed pick up in Menswear for SS25 have been short shorts, messy layering – thanks to Miu Miu–, the use of belts, and trompe l’oeil. [Editor’s note: illusionistic art that relies on optical illusions].

What considerations are important to you when ordering a new brand?

There are a lot of factors that come into play when placing an order for a new brand. Some brands are brought in for image, others for commercial purposes. Things such as brand aesthetic, price point, and brand alignment are all important factors.

Are there certain colours that characterise the season for you?

We saw a wide use of colours this season, some in colour blocking form and others in prints. There were two colours in particular that stood out to me, both red and a form of chartreuse green [Editor’s note: French herbal liqueur] perfectly in line with BRAT summer

Has the overall economic situation had an impact on your orders?

the current economic situation is proving difficult for both brands and retailers. Budgets have been reduced and brands have been dropped. Off the back of this, we are doing what we can to protect ourselves in this environment.

What is the best way to protect yourself in this situation?

We try to focus on the best-selling brands and styles.

What do your customers particularly like to buy at the moment?

We are seeing strongest performance on brands that have stayed true to themselves and not tried to follow the industry too much. This means a focus on price point, quality, and aesthetic.

Where is menswear heading?

Most menswear is a bit stuck at the moment, we are seeing the same trends and aesthetics across a lot of brands. Press is constantly writing about menswear and womenswear blending but 2024 is not the first time we have seen men wear skirts. On the other end of the spectrum, we are seeing a version of a Carhartt jacket from almost every brand. I’m waiting for someone to shake up Menswear a bit.

The interview was conducted in written form. The article was originally published on FashionUnited.DE and subsequently translated and edited into English.