Loewe's 180 years, milestone by milestone

Madrid – In 2026, the Spanish house Loewe, whose origins date back to Madrid in 1846, is celebrating its 180-year history. This milestone makes it the second oldest active luxury fashion house in the world, behind only Hermès, which was founded in Paris in 1837. We join the celebrations with a brief review of the chapters and achievements that have marked its journey as the firm approaches its two-century anniversary.

An institution in Spain, Loewe maintains its deep-rooted heritage and essence, which began in a small collective leather workshop on Calle del Lobo, now Calle de Echegaray. Recognised as a leading international luxury brand, particularly after its brilliant period under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, the Spanish house kicked off its 180th-anniversary celebrations at the beginning of this summer. The celebrations included the release of a campaign photographed by Talia Chetrit. It starred Israeli-American actress Julia Garner; Japanese singer Giselle; Egyptian actress Salma Abu Deif; Hong Kong actress Kara Wai; and Americans Sissy Spacek and Kara Walker, highlighting the brand's distinctly global profile today. This global reach has been influenced by its early entry into Japan and, notably, its acquisition in 1996 by the French multinational holding company LVMH. That transaction, coinciding with the house's 150th anniversary, marked a decisive turning point in its history. The French luxury multinational is confident that the 180th anniversary of Loewe's founding will do the same. This commemoration, whether by chance or design, has coincided with the appointment of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez as the new creative directors.

In this role, the American duo opened the most recent chapter in Loewe's history by presenting their debut collection for the Spanish house on October 3, 2025, during Paris Fashion Week. The collection, presented for the spring/summer 2026 season, not only began to shape their 'new Loewe' but also marked the start of the 180th-anniversary celebrations. This commemoration will continue this season with the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collections. However, McCollough and Hernandez will begin to conclude the festivities with the presentation of the Loewe menswear and womenswear collections for the spring/summer 2027 season during the upcoming Paris Fashion Week in September. These proposals are intended to further define the new codes of the Loewe they are shaping. Their first years of creative direction, beyond campaigns and festivities, are also being marked by the celebration of Loewe's 180-year history.

McCollough and Hernandez have celebrated this milestone with an anniversary capsule collection, which was featured in the aforementioned campaign. The collection includes illustrated pieces with lion motifs, a clear reference to the German translation of 'loewe', which means 'lion'. Among the designs is the anniversary version of the 'Amazona 180', McCollough and Hernandez's reinterpretation of the legendary Loewe Amazona bag for their debut collection. Its name is a direct reference to Loewe's 180-year history. The number also poetically seems to allude to the 180-degree turn McCollough and Hernandez are trying to give the Spanish house as they usher in the latest chapter of its nearly two-century history. We will now take a brief look at the main milestones and chapters that have marked the first 180 years of Loewe's existence.

1846, foundation of the small leather workshop that marks the house's origins

A small collective workshop of artisans specialising in leatherwork and the manufacture of small leather goods, such as handbags, wallets, cigarette cases, jewellery boxes and photo frames, is founded in Madrid on Calle del Lobo—now Calle de Echegaray—in the Barrio de las Letras.

1872, partnership with Heinrich Loewe Rössberg

That year, an alliance was formed between the leather workshop and the German craftsman Heinrich Loewe Rössberg (1844–1929), who was then based in Madrid. He had been impressed by the workshop's fine craftsmanship, which was run at the time by leather artisans José Silva and Florencio Rivas. This partnership led to its acquisition by the German craftsman, who, after Spanishising his name to Enrique Loewe, renamed it E. Loewe. This designation then became the brand for his leather products.

1892, opening of the first store and arrival of the second generation of the Loewe family

Taking a first step in establishing itself as a brand, E. Loewe opened a large store and production workshop that year on Calle del Príncipe in Madrid. The street, which runs parallel to Calle de Echegaray, was described as one of the busiest and most commercial streets in Madrid at the time. From there, Loewe began manufacturing and selling all kinds of leather goods, including its first handbags for women. For these tasks, the entrepreneur began to rely on the help of his son, Enrique Jorge Loewe Hinton (1879–1934).

1905, appointment as 'Supplier to the Spanish Royal Household'

By edict of the Intendencia General de la Real Casa y Patrimonio, the name given to the Royal Household at the time, King Alfonso XIII of Spain granted Loewe the title of 'Supplier to the Spanish Royal Household'. This honour recognised the firm's unparalleled craftsmanship and allowed it to use the Royal Coat of Arms on the branding and labels of the products manufactured and sold by E. Loewe. The label thus became the Spanish representative on the long list of firms and artisans that European courts had begun to distinguish with similar accolades. These included Guerlain, named 'perfumer to Her Majesty' Empress Eugénie de Montijo of the French in 1853; Cartier, appointed official jewellery supplier to the British Royal Household in 1904; and Prada, designated Official Supplier to the Italian Royal Household in 1919, just three years after its founding in Milan in 1913.

1910, expansion to Barcelona

Backed by the growing demand for its products, E. Loewe began its expansion in Spain with the opening of its first store in Barcelona in 1910, on Calle Fontanella. This was followed by the opening of a second store in 1918 at number 30 Calle Fernando in Barcelona, and a new store in Madrid in 1923 at number seven Calle Barquillo.

1934, second generational change

Following the death of Enrique Jorge Loewe Hinton that year, the third generation of the founding family took over the company, with Enrique Loewe Knappe (1912-2016), son of Enrique Jorge Loewe Hinton, at the helm of the family business.

1939, opening on Gran Vía in Madrid

Marking a decisive step in its projection as a modern luxury house, Loewe, no longer preceded by the 'E.', inaugurated its historic and emblematic store at number eight Gran Vía in Madrid after the Spanish Civil War. The Spanish house established itself on the new and splendid grand boulevard of the Spanish capital, where construction had officially finished in 1932, with a store designed by architect Francisco Ferrer Bartolomé. The project was later renovated to add striking semi-circular shop windows that caused a sensation among passers-by.

1945, José Pérez de Rozas, Loewe's first creative director

Taking another step in its evolution from a leather workshop and factory to a modern luxury house, Loewe appointed its first creative director. José Pérez Rozas held this position from 1945 to 1978. Loewe itself notes that he played 'a fundamental role in the evolution of the house's visual identity'. He not only designed the first boxcalf leather bags but also the spectacular shop windows that would become a hallmark of Loewe. These amazing installations involved collaborations with sculptors, glassblowers and a wide variety of other artisans.

1950, leather goods factory on Calle del Ferrocarril in Madrid

In a decision that would prove particularly important for the firm's next phase of expansion, Loewe opened a state-of-the-art leather goods factory on Calle del Ferrocarril in Madrid during the 1950s. The opening of these facilities was accompanied by the establishment of a training school. From that moment on, Loewe began to safeguard its 'savoir-faire' through a structured teaching system that allowed for the transfer of artisanal leatherworking mastery from generation to generation, between masters and apprentices.

1959, opening on Calle de Serrano in Madrid

With its expanded production capacity, Loewe continued its consolidation strategy in Madrid, launching a decisive renovation and relaunch plan with the opening of its first store in the Salamanca district in 1959. The retail space, located at number 26 Calle de Serrano, was designed by architect Javier Carvajal. With its opening, the firm anticipated the street's establishment as the new 'Golden Mile' for shopping in Madrid. Carvajal was responsible not only for this project but would go on to design up to 13 retail locations for the firm as part of the renovation and growth process Loewe was undergoing at the time. The firm followed this plan with a succession of new store openings in Bilbao; Valencia; Palma de Mallorca; Seville; Granada; Córdoba; Las Palmas and Tenerife; and in Tangier, noted as Loewe's first international location.

1963, first opening in London

Marking a turning point in its projection as an international luxury firm, Loewe arrived in the UK in 1963. In June, it opened a small retail space in London's Hilton Hotel on Park Lane, opposite Hyde Park, which had opened in April of the same year and would eventually close after an IRA bombing. This was one of the 13 stores designed by Javier Carvajal for the firm between 1959 and 1964. It was followed by the opening of Loewe's first high street store in London at number 75 Jermyn Street, Carvajal's last project for the Spanish firm, and finally the opening of the emblematic Loewe store on Old Bond Street in 1969.

1964, third generational change

Marking the third change in the company's management, Enrique Loewe Lynch, a member of the fourth generation of Loewe's founding family, took the reins of the company. He began to run it alongside his cousins at the express wish of the firm's management team. The management had requested the presence of a family member in the day-to-day running of the business after his father, Enrique Loewe Knappe, decided to leave everything behind and move to London, causing a cataclysm both within the family and the company itself.

1965, first women's prêt-à-porter collection

Joining the disruptive prêt-à-porter trend that had begun to emerge strongly from Paris in the early 1960s, Loewe expanded its brand universe to become a complete fashion house with the launch of its first women's prêt-à-porter designs in 1965. For this process, Enrique Loewe Knappe had hired none other than Karl Lagerfeld as an external designer to define Loewe's clothing codes. During the 1970s, Enrique Loewe Lynch would add names like Armani to these tasks, before he founded his own fashion house in 1975.

1970, Vicente Vela's emblem

Inspired by the branding irons traditionally used in cattle ranching to mark high-quality hides, designer Vicente Vela designed the house's historic anagram, formed by the addition of four 'L'-shaped motifs.

1972, entry into perfumery

Completing its brand universe, Loewe entered the world of perfumery in 1972 with the launch of the 'L' de Loewe perfume for women. This fragrance was followed by others, including Loewe Pour Homme (1974), Aire (1985), Esencia (1987), Aura (1994), Agua (2000), Solo (2004), 7 (2010), 001 (2016) and Earth (2022).

1973, first opening in Japan

Ahead of the leading international luxury firms in its conquest of Asian markets, Loewe arrived in Japan in 1973 with the opening of its first point-of-sale outside Europe, in the Mitsukoshi Nihombashi department store in Tokyo.

1975, launch of the 'Amazona'

Becoming the most emblematic piece in the Loewe archive, the firm launched its legendary 'Amazona' bag in 1975. The design placed it at the forefront of the industry and was the key piece in Loewe's first 'soft bags' collection. With it, the Spanish house set a trend a decade before Hermès attempted to do the same with the presentation of its Birkin bag in 1984.

1979, Rumasa's entry

In one of the most turbulent episodes in Loewe's history, the holding company Rumasa, owned by businessman José María Ruiz Mateos, acquired a stake in the firm in 1979. It purchased nearly 25 percent of the company from Germán Loewe Knappe, brother of Enrique Loewe Knappe and uncle of Enrique Loewe Lynch, who was then in charge of the company. This sale upset the balance of decision-making power within the company, which until then had been controlled by the Loewe Knappe brothers with a 51 percent stake.

1983, expropriation of Rumasa

In the second chapter of the Rumasa affair, Felipe González's government agreed on February 23, 1983, to expropriate Rumasa. At that time, Rumasa held 66 percent of Loewe's shares, compared to 20 percent held by Enrique Loewe Knappe and the remaining 14 percent by other minority shareholders.

1983, first store opening in New York

Based on a 1982 project by Vicente Vela and artist Gustavo Torner, Loewe opened its first store in New York, and in the US, in 1983 in the Trump Tower on Fifth Avenue.

1983, first men's prêt-à-porter collection

Diversifying its offering and continuing with its strategic plans despite ownership tensions, the firm entered menswear with the launch of its first men's prêt-à-porter collection in 1983.

1984, creation of the 'Flamenco' bag

Although it is very much in vogue today, Loewe actually designed and began selling its historic Flamenco bag in 1984. The piece was revived from the archives by Stuart Vevers, and the versions designed under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson have been particularly well received.

1984, sale of state-owned shares

Completing the expropriation of Rumasa, the government privatised Loewe's state-owned capital in 1984. It sold its nearly 66 percent stake to a group of investors that included Enrique Loewe Lynch himself and was led by Italian businessman Gian Luca Spinola and Frenchman Louis Urvois, president of The Estée Lauder International. The Urvois-Spinola offer, not without controversy, ultimately prevailed over the one submitted by the British group Jaeger, a subsidiary of the British multinational Coats Group, which was publicly supported by Enrique Loewe Knappe.

1985, LVMH acquires a stake in Loewe

The French multinational holding company LVMH, then known as Louis Vuitton, became a shareholder in Loewe. It had reached a strategic agreement with the company to boost its international growth, which resulted in the opening of brand stores in various international capitals.

1986, new family tensions

In another family conflict, Enrique Loewe Knappe founded an independent company in 1986 with the aim of pursuing a project parallel to Loewe. This clearly showed his discontent at being left out of the Urvois-Spinola offer, which excluded him from the company's management. These intentions ended up pitting father against son at the industrial property registry, a conflict that concluded with Loewe challenging the new company's incorporation.

1988, creation of the Loewe Foundation

With the company's future secured by LVMH's backing, Loewe began to deepen its identity as a fashion house with the creation of the Loewe Foundation in 1988, and the Loewe Foundation International Poetry Prize.

1996, sale to LVMH

Coinciding with the 150th anniversary of Loewe's founding, the company was sold to the LVMH group, which by 1995 already held a 30 percent stake in the company. They increased this percentage to 70 percent in 1996 with the purchase of the 22 percent held by Louis Urvois and the 18 percent held by Gianlucca Spinola.

1997, Narciso Rodriguez joins as creative director

After the French multinational holding company took control of the firm, LVMH began a determined relaunch of Loewe with the appointment of Narciso Rodriguez as the new creative director in June 1997. He took on the role at the height of his popularity, after creating a sensation with the wedding dress he designed for Carolyn Bessette for her wedding to John F. Kennedy Jr. on September 21, 1996.

1998, first show in Paris

Led by the American designer, Loewe marked a new milestone in its history, debuting for the first time on the Paris Fashion Week runway during its March 1998 edition.

2001, José Enrique Oña Selfa, new creative director

Marking the first change in Loewe's creative department since its acquisition by LVMH, the appointment of Belgian fashion designer of Spanish descent, José Enrique Oña Selfa, as the new creative director of Loewe was confirmed in September 2001. He held the position until October 2007.

2007, Stuart Vevers, new creative director

With the aim of driving growth and development that seemed to be falling short of the new ownership's forecasts and ambitions, the appointment of British fashion designer Stuart Vevers as the next creative director of Loewe was confirmed in July 2007. Coming from Mulberry, he held the position from January 2008 until June 2013, when his move to American brand Coach as its next creative director was announced.

2013, beginning of the Jonathan Anderson era

Elevating a then-emerging young designer, who had already generated considerable buzz with his own fashion label founded in 2008, the appointment of British designer Jonathan Anderson as the new creative director of Loewe was confirmed in September 2013. From this position, he redrew and recontextualised the entire ideology and imagery of the house, from its emblem to the image of its points-of-sale. He remained until his departure from the creative direction of Loewe in March 2025 to take up the creative direction of Dior, another of the major fashion houses in the LVMH group's portfolio. The move marked the end of the brilliant 'Jonathan Anderson era' at Loewe.

2014, creation of the 'Puzzle' bag

In one of the most disruptive moves at the start of the Jonathan Anderson era, alongside other decisions such as discontinuing the tie line, the designer presented his first bag model in 2014: the Puzzle. It was a key piece in his menswear collection for the spring/summer 2015 season. The design was openly questioned at the time but has since established itself as a key piece in Loewe's offering. The brand celebrated the 10th anniversary of the Puzzle bag with a capsule of unique models in 2025.

2016, creation of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize

As one of the major initiatives launched by the firm under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, the creation of the Loewe Foundation's international craft prize was announced in April 2016. The prize has since been awarded annually under the direction of the Loewe Foundation to celebrate new artistic expressions of traditional crafts.

2016, opening of 'Casa Loewe Madrid'

Firmly establishing the foundations of the Jonathan Anderson era, Loewe reopened its store at number 34 Calle de Serrano in Madrid in November 2016. The space was then presented as 'Casa Loewe', a flagship store from which the brand launched its new store concept. This concept has since been implemented as the benchmark for its various global openings.

2025, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, new creative directors of Loewe

To lead the new, and for now final, stage of the firm, Loewe confirmed the appointment of American designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez as the new creative directors in March 2025, just a few days after confirming Jonathan Anderson's departure. They debuted in the role with the presentation of their first collection in October 2025, ushering in a 'new Loewe'. From this new direction, they are certainly giving the brand a new spin, recontextualising the main aesthetic and creative codes that have defined it in recent years.

2025, new 'Madrid' bag

In what turned out to be Jonathan Anderson's swan song for Loewe, the firm released its new 'Madrid' bag for sale in early 2025. The new design was presented by the British designer in September 2024 as part of his womenswear collection for the spring/summer 2025 season.

2026, new 'Amazona 180'

Kicking off this year and paving the way for the 180th-anniversary celebrations of Loewe's founding, the firm released its new 'Amazona 180' bag for sale at the beginning of the year. A key piece from the debut collection presented in October 2025, it stands out not only as a commemorative piece but also as the first bag created for the firm by McCollough and Hernandez.

2026, collaboration agreement with the Royal Spanish Football Federation (RFEF)

In a move unprecedented for the Spanish house, Loewe made its first foray into the world of sport in 2026. It signed a strategic agreement with the Royal Spanish Football Federation (RFEF) to dress the Spanish senior men's and women's national teams for four years, until the 2030 World Cup in Spain, Portugal and Morocco. The collaboration could not have got off to a better start, following Spain's victory as winners of the 2026 FIFA World Cup.

2026, Loewe's 180th anniversary

Closing this history of Loewe's 180 years, we arrive at the present moment, where the firm is celebrating its first 180 years of history. They have commemorated this milestone with a campaign featuring Antonio Banderas, which aims to highlight the Spanish house's trajectory. A parallel campaign and a commemorative collection were also created and launched this summer to celebrate the 180 years since Loewe's founding.