London Collections: Men AW15 Day 4
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E. Tautz found inspiration in the 1940s working men's wardrobe, which saw traditional tailoring mix with uniform references and knitwear. Vintage silhouettes were paired with voluminous heavy-duty outerwear and wide-leg trousers with blazers in classic proportions. Knitwear added the casual touch, as did weekend sportswear like a golf jacket car coat.
Craig Green Lightweight overcoats, cropped uniform jackets and belted work shirts were some of the key pieces at Craig Green's AW15 presentation. Multi-straps, self-belts, lacing, wrapping and subtle padding added a utilitarian vibe, but stripped back there were commercial pieces that will work at retail.
Burberry is always strong on outerwear, particularly in a winter season. For AW15 the British heritage brand showed an eclectic mix of slim tailored silhouettes with outerwear included a fur collar overcoat, leather-sleeve bomber, a shrunken blazer and a tobacco coloured shearling coat. Fabrics felt heavy, with arts & crafts inspired prints, and the top half of the silhouette was emphasised with rounded shoulders and slightly oversized proportions while the skinny trousers kept the look contemporary.
Tom Ford's presentations are usually high octane, glamorous affairs that are invitation only, with photography barred. But keeping up with the times, Ford opened his show stating: "Every season we've tried to keep the presentation secret and every year photos end up leaking out of it, so we gave up and designed a studio for you!" There was suiting in a graphic 60s check, with the silhouette generous at the lapel and shoulder. The trend for shearling wasn't missed on Ford and came in jackets and trims. Sixties-inspired eveningwear, featured monochromatic optic jacquard smoking jackets with shawl collars worn with slim trousers and minimal bow ties.