London Fashion Week Day 5

Ashley Williams' fashion followers will be wearing leather corsets and 80s heavy metal tees, according to his offer next season. As the show commented, a voice over the sound system roared: “The key to saving the future can be found only in the past.” As was evident, Williams looked to the past to find inspiration in 80s and 90s pop culture and the graphics were a collaboration with Fergus Purcell. These motifs were seen on knit jumpers and skirts: a mismatch of skate subculture visuals and imagery sourced from Heaven’s Gate cult of the 90s. Elsewhere fur bucket hats, and PVC dresses were worn over polo necks.

Dutch designer Michael van der Ham only this week launched a made-to-order service on his website, in addition to showing at London Fashion Week. “It’s a signature of mine to explore collage,” van der Ham told Vogue backstage. “And here, I pushed myself to keep experimenting, keep experimenting.” On the catwalk we saw his asymmetric signature presented as light, layered and feminine. There was organza, silk, wool, jacquard and brocade, but the pairing was always of lightness, something that was often missing in London this season, where many young designers pull off collections that are heavy or indeed hard. Instead, the lightness of tulle chiffon layered with floral embroidery was beautifully paired, and came in midnight blue and neutral tones.

Christopher Raeburn's masculine aesthetic may not always strike a chord when channeling a path in womenswear, but this season the designer offered pieces other than textured outerwear that will resonate with a female customer. With just 24 looks, this was a short but concise presentation that had focus. A patchwork poncho opened the show, which ticked all the boxes of the season's trends. Parka's and hooded jackets with a slimline silhouette looked neat and fresh. Rayburn's recycled parachute fabric is a staple in his collections as are the utility staples on offer. The denim pieces were interesting, and came mixed with appeared to be wool jersey or fleece, in dresses and coats. The dolphin print sweaters will be a good seller at retail.

Sexy and sporty looks were the order of the day at Ashish, which were sent down the runway to the soundtrack of the 1971 cult film Klute. Ashish' signature sequin embellishment took the form of super-sized camouflage parkas, lace-trimmed camisole dresses, low-slung culottes with contrasting faux-fur hems and slouchy bomber jackets. Elevated stonewashed denim also featured in the mix, cut into shift dresses, shrunken jackets and lace-up jeans that were punctuated with silver studs and rivets. In addition to the covetable sweaters and fun, fluid joggers, Ashish expanded his repertoire for AW15 with a series of statement coats, noted Dazed Digital. “I thought, what’s the most magical coat that a woman could own? And I answered that question with the camouflage sequin and leopard-printed parkas that were on the catwalk today,” he said.

It was a winter brocade wonderland at Central Saint Martins graduates duo Marques'Almeida. Designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida fused metallic brocades, lilac fur and blankets of Swarovski crystals with their signature denim. It was a mishmash of 90s references that came draped, wrapped and moulded to the body. If all this sounds like a typical London show of new fashion pushing the envelope, there was depth too. The magic realism of Frida Kahlo, the romantic decadence of Christian Lacroix and the mastercraft of Comme des Garcons were just some of the references seen.