Mare di Moda: 2028 swimwear trends between escapism, protest and shine
“This is one of the most difficult seasons, as nobody in this industry really has any idea what is currently happening.” With this admission, trend expert David Shah opened his seminar at the textile and swimwear trade fair Mare di Moda (MdM). Long-time attendees might recall his opening remarks from a few years ago, when he similarly began with a confession of perplexity. Starting this way again underscores just how volatile the industry and the world currently are. Nevertheless, Shah remained “very, very positive” about the swimwear market.
World in state of emergency
The list of uncertainties is long. The war in Ukraine is not over, tensions between Iran and Israel remain high, conflicts are escalating in the Red Sea and the US heads to the polls in November. Shah also turned his attention to China. Having worked in the People’s Republic since 1985, he views the country not as belligerent, but as culturally self-confident. It is advancing rapidly in robotics, artificial intelligence (AI) and electrical engineering, pushing imports worth around one billion euros daily into Europe, which now firmly includes fashion, cosmetics and lifestyle.
The fashion industry is feeling the impact of the situation in its own way. At the same time, the luxury sector faces criticism over its pricing. Young people, in particular, feel cheated and are taking their anger over inequality to the streets. Added to this are fewer tourists in Paris, a decline in US buyers and fluctuating markets. Surprisingly, quiet luxury continues to perform well, a phenomenon Shah describes as “non-status status”.
What people want
From this environment, Shah identified several developments that will become vital for swimwear. Today, consumers prefer to spend their money on experiences rather than possessions. Luxury travel is booming, with some counting visited countries as if in a competition. This has previously hurt the swimwear sector; those travelling just for a weekend and a photo opportunity do not need 14 days on the beach. However, as many now yearn for a genuine escape from everyday life, Shah expects a turnaround here.
Body ideals are also shifting. The status symbol is no longer a six-pack, but the number of healthy years of life, which favours lightweight, soft fabrics and a form of wellness swimwear. Simultaneously, the older female consumer is returning to the spotlight following actress Jamie Lee Curtis’s appearance in Vogue. This demographic has both the money and time to travel, yet often finds buying swimwear unpleasant and prefers to order online. The industry must therefore position the category to be age-inclusive.
Alongside this, sensuality is returning, from the comeback of the Victoria’s Secret (VS) show to provocative cinema films and series. Behind this lies a generation that feels lonely, finds dating expensive and longs for romance and tenderness. These same young consumers embrace flaws, disruptions and oversized silhouettes, while loving playfulness. Toys, Lego and puzzles are booming, while tennis and padel remain fashionable. Cuteness has also returned, featuring teddy bears, plush, fluffy textures, pastel shades and a candy-coated sheen.
For the trend expert, the conclusion is clear: swimwear must above all offer escapism.
5 movements shaping beachwear in 2028
1. Hyper hyper
The first movement draws from hyperpop and internet culture. Colours are artificial and uninhibited, chrome recalls the early internet and glitter is borrowed from glam rock and the Y2K style of the 2000s. This aesthetic is designed less for the beach itself and more for what follows, such as cocktails at the beach bar.
Ruffles, flounces and 3D embellishments with a kitsch factor are just as integral as references to showgirls and burlesque. Shah was particularly fond of sequined varsity sportswear, which he described as “trash culture at its best”. Here, everything is permitted to be exaggerated, shrill and self-ironic, as the goal is to transport oneself into another world.
2. Chill
As a counterpoint, chill represents lo-fi music, California and authenticity over perfection. The colours appear sun-bleached and washed-out, reminiscent of water, flower petals and honey. The surf look does not arrive in a bright Hawaiian style, but rather pared-back and in the spirit of the 1960s, as though children had raided their parents’ wardrobes.
Simple two-tone palettes, motifs with nods to indigenous art, batik and other hand-dyeing techniques are typical. Crochet, knitwear and needlework are pieced together anew. These are complemented by heirloom details such as ruching and smocking, cream-white embroidery, Missoni-style colourways, reworked checks and soft, fine stripes. Overall, the look strikes a balance between loud and quiet.
3. Hot
Hot is the Latin movement, standing for passion, elegance and seduction. Saturated colours meet dark backgrounds that heighten their drama, while a silky sheen makes the shades glow. Shah spoke of “maximalism at its best”, featuring ruffles, flounces and anything that appears exotic, dramatic and theatrical.
Added to this are hyper-realistic feathers, intensely printed skin motifs and colour blotches that look like an “ink storm”, according to Shah. Body-hugging contours and a touch of boudoir provide sensuality, while gender boundaries simultaneously dissolve.
4. Flow
The topic of sustainability has lost momentum in fashion, Shah explained following a conversation with a responsible apparel expert. Instead, it is evolving into a “next nature”, where nature and technology merge. The colours are atmospheric, mossy and mushroom-like, yet possess a clinical, synthetic edge. The tactility becomes “jelly-like”, semi-transparent and opalescent. This is accompanied by fluidity, technical gradients, biomorphic spots and an oxidised metal patina.
Water also shapes both the visual appeal and construction. Wave patterns, aquatic camouflage and marbling are prominent, alongside permeable laser-cut and openwork structures. Reliefs created through smocking, 3D printing and technical knitwear also feature. Furthermore, Shah observes a trend towards monochromatic looks, from yoga mats to hair clips, even if he remains a maximalist himself.
5. Bang bang
The final movement is the loudest, standing for protest, hip-hop and music as an act of rebellion. The motto “I am doing this for me” applies primarily to youth building their own universe. Strong contrasts against black, colliding shapes and concepts, and saturated colours bleeding into one another are in demand. Clothing thus becomes a dialogue and a statement, much like the iconic slogan T-shirts by designer Katharine Hamnett.
Accordingly, there are stickers, badges and transfers bearing witty, social or political messages, alongside spray paint, graffiti and gestural brushstrokes in the style of Jackson Pollock. The patterns appear constructivist, dynamic and geometric. Dazzle camouflage stripes shape the silhouette, similar to First World War ships, while strapping defines the form in place of the cut.
Shine as signal
Colour provided the clearest statistic. According to Shah, 25 percent of the shades in the new 2028/29 colour card are shiny. This means they are pearlescent, glossy, glassy or shimmering, rather than merely metallic. The French colour authority Comité Français de la Couleur (CFC) arrived at the same proportion, with holographic, prismatic and chaotic colours completing the picture.
Which shade Pantone will crown as its colour of the year will not be announced until December, and Shah was not permitted to reveal any details yet. However, he hinted that the tone will suit swimwear exceptionally well.
His conclusion was correspondingly clear. In a time full of anxieties, loneliness and scepticism towards luxury, people are seeking joy, fantasy and a place to switch off, and swimwear can deliver all three.