Twin Peaks actor Kyle MacLachlan opened the Prada menswear show, which saw a flurry of accomplished actors take to the catwalk, including Jeff Goldblum and Sex Education newcomer Asa Butterfield.
If Prada were to sum up three items for next season it would be the trench, blazer and a square-toed shoe, all architectural pillars of a working man’s wardrobe. The trench: broad-shouldered, double-breasted and accentuating of waist and chest is old school masculine in its military length to below the calf. Other versions include a double-breasted wool or cashmere with a sheepskin hem and arm trims.
Blazers had the same exaggerated cut in the shoulder, emphasising power and strength, with hidden buttons and minimalist closure. Sleeves were elongated, with just three-quarters of a hand popping out, in bright red or yellow gloves that matched the socks.
Trousers fell long and loose over shoes, a feature that signalled the end of cropped pants. What does a longer length trouser signal for the working man? Perseverance and reliability perhaps. The shoes were black and sturdy, the square toe cementing the show’s theme, “a parody of man power.”
Notes accompanying the collection gave insight into Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ mindset: “we were thinking about meaningful fashion, pieces that make sense. Clothes that make people feel important.”
“The collection celebrates the idea of working – in all different spheres and meanings. It is a practical, everyday thing. But here, you are formally important. You are not casual.”
Body of Work
Prada said the collection represents a uniform of reality, rematerialized in leather and silk tech as a mark of respect and value. These are laid alongside the language of sartorial tailoring, a formality which confers an importance.
In a statement Prada said the garments “exemplify a constructed modernism, with the architecture of the body given emphasis, shoulders and waist delineated through traditional tailoring, a silhouette then transmuted to everyday garments. Through fabrication and methodology, an equal gravity is given to each genre of clothing - every facet of reality is offered significance, a sophistication and esteem, a lasting value.”