MFW: Spotlight focused on the shows and the web

This will pass into history as the fashion week of disputes but also of the fightback by the young, the triumph of the web, the importance of the shows and, lastly, of the pride of the designers. Prada, Fendi, Krizia and Laura Biagiotti, for example, who decided to keep the date of the fashion show unchanged although Anna Wintour, the Director of Vogue Usa, had announced that she would be staying in Milan only for the weekend (except that she was expected to arrive on Thursday). Missoni made a lucky guess too in deciding to present the women’s line for next winter in the cloister of Milan State University, with a fashion show open to everyone. A few splashes of colour and a touch of multiethnic sensuality on a rainy Sunday. Sensuality and femininity have been the dominant motifs of all the collections (86 fashion shows, 87 presentations and another 44 by appointment). Prada focused on the bosom emphasised by uplift bras that were in good taste but cheeky. Roberto Cavalli dressed a sophisticated and feminine Bohemian lady. Chicca Lualdi BeeQueen, who is one of the new upcoming designers, presented a more romantic and delicate woman.

Let us hope that all this sensuality will not upset international fashion editors as it did last September when Suzy Menkes described Italian fashion as "lightweight” in the pages of the International Herald Tribune, whilst Cathy Horyn of the New York Times stated: “Italian supremacy in design and in the manufacturing sector has been put to a severe test.” To be fair, yesterday Mrs. Menkes stressed with regard to the Prada collection that “perhaps it is not only the bosom but also maturity that is coming back into fashion.” Let us also hope above all that sensuality will put things right for a fashion world for which, in 2009, things did not go well. “2009 was very difficult, there were major shake-ups,” stressed Gaetano Marzotto, the President of Pitti Immagine. According to Istat data for the period from January to October 2009, Italian exports of ladies’ fashion suffered a major decline equivalent to 19.1 percent compared with the same period for the prior year. A result badly affected by the collapse of non-EU markets like Russia (-32.1 percent), the United States (-31.1 percent) and Hong Kong (-27.7 percent).

There is careful optimism among the show and exhibition organisers, who are now going to be sharing the scene with fashion shows. “We have as a record number of requests for participation, about 2,000, especially from abroad,” said Massimiliano Bizzi, the President of White. There will be more buyers than ever at White’s exhibition site. About 350 brands are expected. There is the same atmosphere in one of the colourful, international and lively hotels in Milan, the Nhow, in via Tortona, the location of Touch! neoZone cloudnine.

There is a more relaxed climate on the catwalk, at launches around the city. A gigantic cake with cream and chocolate skulls celebrated the arrival of the German brand Philipp Plein, which has opened a showroom in via Bigli. There is a fabulous atmosphere at Number 12, viale Monte Grappa, where Maison Moschino made its debut.

The web has been one of the other protagonists of this fashion week thanks to the live streaming service set up on Camera della moda’s own site. On the other hand, the fashion shows of Emporio Armani, Max Mara, Sportmax, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada are live on their company sites. An initiative that has pleased many of the bloggers scattered around the world. “How happy are you that everyone is livestreaming?”, wrote for example the acclaimed young fashion blogger Tavi.

From our correspondent in Milan

Photo 1: Prada F/W 2010
Photo 2: Missoni F/W 2010

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