Milan Fashion Week: from Roberto Cavalli's exuberance to Marni's juxtapositions
Milan, Italy – Leopard prints and tattooed red leather set the tone as designer Fausto Puglisi conceived an exuberant and sexy Californian party for Roberto Cavalli on Thursday during Milan's spring/summer 2027 fashion week.
A zebra-print kimono was worn over printed jeans, barely covering a matching thong. The in-house designer celebrated the Milanese house's colourful archives with a touch of festive excess.
"I am trying to react to a terrible time," Fausto Puglisi told AFP after the show. He had been congratulated by rapper Cardi B, tennis player Naomi Osaka and influencer Chiara Ferragni.
Faced with the proliferation of global conflicts, the designer said he tries to “resist by creating something beautiful that brings optimism, conceived as a script for a director or a writer”. This translated into tops laced across the stomach; a tunic featuring a cheetah's head, reminiscent of luxury beach towels; and flowers woven onto the hems of jeans.
"Prints are layered on top of each other without hierarchy, a visceral accumulation, a feverishly constructed chaos that seems alive,” the brand explained in a statement.
The Italian designer joined Cavalli in 2020. He presented his first collection since the brand's acquisition by the American company Marquee Brands, which already includes Ben Sherman and BCBGMAXAZRIA in its portfolio.
Emporio Armani presented its latest co-ed collection, designed by Leo dell'Orco and Silvana Armani, ahead of the arrival of Dario Vitale, which was announced on September 16.
The summer collection, crafted from linen, silk, or jersey in white, grey, and black, appeared aged and creased by seawater and wind. Salt crystals, used in the garment treatment process, were also replicated on jackets and brooches.
“Everything carries a mark charged with depth and memory. Everything seems to float with lightness, while retaining firmness and structure,” the brand explained in a statement.
Max Mara: reinterpretation of the trench coat and utilitarian pieces
Earlier on Thursday, Max Mara presented a reinterpretation of the trench coat and other elegant, utilitarian pieces for the womenswear wardrobe. This marked the third day of fashion week.
The trench coat was long and loose, while the safari jacket was offered in linen or shiny gabardine, 50 years after the original was designed by Yves Saint Laurent. Trousers were wide-legged and high-waisted.
Max Mara “draws inspiration from the bold and cosmopolitan women of the 1930s, pioneers of style both in travel and in the salons of the era,” the brand explained in a statement.
Bags were also voluminous, designed to be worn on the shoulder or as a backpack. According to the brand, “it is a wardrobe for the contemporary woman, who approaches the day with the determination of an explorer,” armed with a fluid, pocketed gilet that extends below the hips.
Marni: a wealth of juxtapositions
For her second co-ed collection at Marni, Meryll Rogge multiplied juxtapositions. A parka was worn with sandals; polka dot patterns were paired with stripes; and large jumpers were layered over leather trousers.
With the return of some of Marni's signature prints, the Belgian designer continued her exploration of the brand's codes. Marni is part of the OTB group, which also includes Diesel and Maison Margiela.
Bags, another of the Milanese brand's strengths, were wide with a small flap, presenting a mini version of the “Trunk” bag launched in the 2010s.