Milan Fashion Week: Maria Grazia Chiuri's sensual and delicate return to Fendi
Milan, Italy – Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri made her return to Fendi on Wednesday. She presented a sensual and delicate collection in Milan, featuring furs and leathers crafted like lace.
A seasoned designer with experience at Dior and Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri returned to Fendi 35 years after her debut at the Roman house. This debut co-ed autumn/winter collection showcased black, white, and green furs, some of which were reconstructed.
Featuring flowing dresses and lace, Maria Grazia Chiuri advocates for “a return to desire”. One scarlet dress was likely an homage to Valentino, who passed away at the end of January. The designer explained in a statement that this is for “an era where bodies are increasingly ignored in their most earthly and primal impulses”.
The designer explained she wanted to present a “personal geography” of fashion. This approach highlights Fendi's history and collaborations with other designers, a method she had already successfully tested at Dior.
On returning to the Fendi sisters, “I am here to give back what they gave me,” the designer told Vogue magazine. With shirt collars worn as necklaces by women and large furs for men, Maria Grazia Chiuri also aimed to “move beyond the distinction between womenswear and menswear”.
The designer collaborated with the young artist SAGG Napoli on T-shirts and football scarves with slogans, such as “Rooted but not stuck,” or “Loyal but not obedient” (in Italian).
Actors Monica Bellucci and Jude Law were among the hundreds of guests, seated around Bernard Arnault, chairman of Fendi's parent company, LVMH.
Outside Fendi's Milan headquarters where the show took place, several hundred young fans cheered loudly for singer and performer Bang Chan of the Korean boy band Stray Kids.
Around ten anti-fur activists protested alongside them, calling for Milan Fashion Week to ban fur as London and New York have done.
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