New Moschino and craftsmanship at Milan Fashion Week
With a new Moschino and anticipated collections from Gucci and Fendi, the spring/summer 2027 womenswear fashion week in Milan aims to usher in a sense of renewal. It will also refocus on craftsmanship in a sector that has been slowing for several months.
One of the main events this week will be the debut show at Moschino by the duo of French designer Loris Messina and Italian designer Simone Rizzo. They previously achieved critical acclaim with their urban and contemporary brand, Sunnei.
At Gucci, the provocateur Demna is set to present his second collection. It is highly anticipated as Italian luxury navigates a difficult period, particularly due to the international climate and the prolonged slowdown of the Chinese market. This will also be Maria Grazia Chiuri's second Fashion Week at Fendi.
“The year 2026 started poorly, but we held up well in the second half,” analysed Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion. He stressed during a press conference in early September that it is a “miracle” the sector continues to hold its own.
The Chamber of Fashion forecasts a further, limited, decline in the sector's turnover of 1.6 percent for the full year. Cosmetics are expected to grow; apparel is recovering; and footwear remains in difficulty.
This year is thus marked by creativity. “Many houses have changed designers, which inevitably generates interest in the fashion world,” commented Toni Belloni, president of LVMH Italy, to AFP.
New boutiques
Prada, which kicks off fashion week on Tuesday at 2pm, has inaugurated its new flagship store in its home turf, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, where the brand was founded in 1913.
Across eight floors, the Milanese group has added a new underground gallery, a museum and vast private lounges to its existing boutiques, patisserie and contemporary art space. The objective is to cater to wealthy clients shopping in Milan, host events and strengthen the brand's image.
This monumental store “uniquely expresses its vision, fostering a dialogue with its audience through an experience where culture, creativity, hospitality and retail meet,” said Prada's chief executive officer, Andrea Guerra, in a statement.
Vogue magazine is organising a show in the same gallery, at the foot of the Milan Cathedral, celebrating “Italian craftsmanship and creativity in the age of technology”. The event will feature La Scala's principal dancer Roberto Bolle and American model Alex Consani, among other celebrities.
A few steps away, on the very chic Via Montenapoleone, Dior has also inaugurated its new multi-storey boutique, which includes a restaurant run by multi-Michelin-starred chef Enrico Bartolini.
A cousin to Paris, Milan is very important to Dior's parent company, LVMH. The world's number one luxury group has already unveiled new stores in the Lombard capital in recent months for its brands Louis Vuitton, Tiffany's and Bvlgari.
The group has also invested in its cashmere specialist brand Loro Piana, inaugurating a new factory on Friday at the foot of the Alps in Ghemme (Piedmont). Nearly 200 employees will produce jumpers and other knitwear items there.
“This new opening consolidates Loro Piana's commitment to strengthening the vertical integration of its knitwear production and to investing in ‘Made in Italy’ know-how,” announced Frédéric Arnault at the inauguration. Arnault is the chief executive officer of Loro Piana and son of the LVMH CEO.
On the Milanese catwalks, alongside regulars like Armani and Roberto Cavalli, Portuguese brands Marques'Almeida and Miguel Vieira will present their debut show, as will Ecuadorian designer Neithan Ruiz.
There will also be a farewell. Glenn Martens is presenting his final collection for Diesel, a brand he has successfully elevated over the past five years. The Belgian designer's successor has not yet been named, but he will remain within the Diesel group at Maison Martin Margiela.