New York Fashion Week

New York fashion week got off to a soaring start, with editors coping with the unfashionably humid weather and rigorous catwalk schedule. Thankfully, the hot temperatures didn't take the focus off the Spring Summer shows, most notably that a shift in fashion was apparent across the major designer collections. Gone are the baby doll dress and girly shapes from last season. Fashion's obsessions with the forties has a more playful feel, with graphic design and pattern and structured dresses being a common theme on the runway.

Evidence of the new trends was visible at 3.1 Phillip Lim, who moved away from his white silhouette of last season, and showed his eye for unexpected pairings, fresh hues and juxtaposing fabrics and colours, such as teaming a feminine silk blouse with a mod lycra mini. Oscar de la Renta received rave reviews from the American press, and had Victoria Beckham cooing on his front row. A strapless dress with an exquisite animated print was stunning evidence of his strength as one America's most luxurious fashion houses.

Narciso Rodriquez, where Brit actress Rachel Weisz held court on his front row, showed floatier silhouette this season, including tie-dye dresses, metallics and embroidered pieces with optical spray paint in places. Tuleh also opted for prints, where zebra, abstract patters and florals were the focus amongst quirkier pieces such as a coral mermaid dress. Marc Jacobs, who's show was a surrealist presentation of models in various states of undress, showed delectable dresses in violet prints, trouser suits with thigh-high slits and cashmere sweaters with sheer in his most conceptual collection to date.

Amy Smilovic at Tibi focused on glamorous safari-inspired pieces, mixing seventies-style prints on dresses and cardigans with linen jumpsuits, pretty gingham dresses and grecian evening wear in bold colours. A new shoe collection featured sumptuous warrior sandals and sexy heels.