Nina Ricci and Olivier Theyskens part ways

Olivier Theyskens and Nina Ricci have officially parted company. In a joint statement, the designer and Ricci said Theyskens exited the French fashion house last week, ahead of the expiration of his contract in October. Ricci “wishes to re-orientate its development strategy for the years to come,” the statement said. “Consequently, Nina Ricci and its artistic director Olivier Theyksens have decided by mutual agreement to cease their collaboration.”

There was no mention of design succession at Ricci, but the separation should pave the way for the arrival of Peter Copping who, as reported in WWD Jan. 28, is to join Ricci as creative director from his current post as a top design deputy to Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.

Neither Theyskens nor Ricci would comment beyond the statement, after a two-year partnership marked by torrents of editorial acclaim, weak commercial success and, more recently, signs of discord between a wunderkind designer and a brand owner keen to bring its fashion house up to the level of success of its perfume business. Spain’s Puig Group owns Ricci, as well as the fashion houses Carolina Herrera and Paco Rabanne.

In anticipation of a separation announcement, speculation about Theyskens’ next move was a hot topic during Paris Fashion Week, which wound up last week.

The Ricci label is sold in about 200 doors worldwide, including about 50 in the U.S. During Theyskens’ tenure, he unveiled a bright, dove-gray boutique concept for the brand’s flagship on the Avenue Montaigne, and forged an alliance with actress Reese Witherspoon for red-carpet dressing.

Source: WWD Image: Nina Ricci Museum dress