Out on a Lim

The music and lighting at 3.1 Phillip Lim's SS07 presentation - his first catwalk show - were as serene as the collection itself. Opening with his first foray into menswear, Lim quickly captured a romantic mood for spring with his softly tailored womenswear showing 31 looks mostly in white hues, with a few shots of navy, florals and minimal pattern. Lim can do simple, as demonstrated by a pair of high-waisted, pleated slacks, but he can also do complex: the crepe de chine blouse paired with those pants came with delicate sleeves of pleated tulle.

Lim has a knack for combining the dressy and the casual-take a cotton voile strapless bell dress paired with a men's leather pilot vest, for instance; or a girlish jumper with an attached bodice made of sequins. Is it day or evening? His clients couldn't care less. More so than most young designers working today, Lim knows how fashionable women want to dress. Celebrities such as Camilla Al Fayed packed in the front row and the trying start to the show - a bustle of editors waiting to be given seat numbers in total darkness, was quickly forgotten.