Paris Fashion Week: Day 1
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It was art meets fashion at Japanese label Anrealage's second season on the Paris catwalks. Graphic and conceptional, designer Kunihiko Morinaga didn't introduce colour until the 22nd look. It was a play of light and shadow, with dark garments featuring lens-shaped colours that looked as if they were projected on the clothes. The clothes themselves were full of texture and sculpted silhouettes. Fabrics felt technical and textural, emphasised by the darkness, which included black-out makeup and hair on the models. It was eerie but also fascinating as only a cult Japanese label can execute.
Paris Fashion Week newcomers Each X Other debuted their first catwalk collection at the Palais de Tokyo to a reading poet and live band. The brand's founders, Jenny Mannerheim and Ilan Delouis showed oversize men's jackets as dresses mixing masculine tailoring in a minimal aesthetic. A wool pinstripe contrast overall and dress were interesting, however a slinky silk minidress teamed with a floor length coat felt old, as did the oversize chunky knitwear worn with a slim bottom silhouette. This was Isabel Marant circa three years ago. There was attention to detail in fabrication, stitching and execution, but the styling could do with an edit to help clarify the direction of the brand.
It is quite a feat to present a collection that oozes sex appeal without being too high octane or forsaking style for substance. Anthony Vaccarello achieved just that, however, which is probably why Donatella Versace chose him to head up the Versace Versus brand earlier this year. Belgian born Vaccarello showed asymmetric dresses, mostly in black, that were of the shortest kind but that never crossed the line of being too outré. Elsewhere there was fringing on brown suede, a recurring American stars and stripes print, and mini dresses that were sharp, short and perfectly executed.
