Haute couture house Schiaparelli digitally presented its spring/summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, with ‘The Surrealist’s Holiday’ collection that looked to capture the varying essence of Schiaparelli, herself.
Creative director Daniel Roseberry directly attributes the late Italian designer as his source of inspiration for the new collection, suggesting his intrigue by who she was in her private life. Roseberry aimed to capture the contrasting characteristics of Schiaparelli through the pieces, displaying her dualities and stating that: “She’s irreducible, and because of that, inimitable”.
“Who was she when she stepped off stage, when she was alone, away from glittering Parisian demimonde,” Roseberry further wondered, in the collection’s press release. “What does the Schiaparelli woman wear when she’s not - to use a beloved term from drag - serving?”
Two perspectives are therefore offered in within the collection: ‘Elsa in the city’ and ‘Elsa on holiday’, each representing different states of understanding on who Schiaparelli was.
‘City’ explores the twists on ‘70’s French ready-to-wear, combined with Surreliast jewellery and exaggerated body parts that are signature elements of the Maison. The selection reimagines Schiaparelli staples, such as a miniskirt and jacket set remade in white denim and remixed floral prints used for a sequin pantsuit.
The other side of the spectrum, ‘Elsa on holiday’ centres around holiday clothes for the state of mind. As Roseberry suggested: “They’re pieces for a literal escape, but also an escape from reality”. Multicoloured knit onesies stand next to “fantasy swimwear”, while draped black silk dresses provide more classic takes on the concept.
The silhouettes are toned down in comparison to Schiaparelli’s typically exaggerated manner, presenting wearable translations of the house’s haute couture offerings. However, accessories stay on the more extravagant side. Oversized earrings and necklaces, snakeskin shoulder bags and restructured signature pieces were present to further display the fresh updates.