Pitti: S.S. Daley gains Harry Styles as investor following Pitti feature
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LVMH Prize winner Steven Stokey-Daley called it a wrap on a Pitti Uomo feature show in Florence yesterday, where he presented the latest autumn/winter 2024 collection of his eponymous brand S.S. Daley. Through 35 looks, the designer took viewers on a story of “institutionalised British formality”, drawing on his personal experience at British boarding schools to inform on the academia-infused line.
Stokey-Daley further touched on the topic of EM Forster’s 1911 novel ‘A Story of A Panic’, in which British tourists stray from their familiar setups into the refined world of Italian fashion, where they abandon their previously established regulations in favour of a breezier approach to dressing.
As such, the designer looked to explore a rejuvenated form of “codified worlds” through a formalwear that evoked what was described in the show notes as a “fresh freedom”. Such efforts are evident in the presence of underwear paired with highly tailored suit jackets, a notable absence of ties and top buttons, and a series of two-pieces that favour relaxed fits and casualised colourways.
While there are attempts to subtly abandon the country’s recognisable design features, there are still hints of quintessential British elements, including countryside-esque motifs and argyle patterns woven into knitwear and a traditional yellow fishing coat complete with a suede collar and matching hat. Other highlights come in the form of tapestry blankets that have been transformed into floor-sweeping collared rugby-style shirts, fitted trench coat hybrids and padded jacket-and-shorts combos found in iridescent materials.
Styles comes on as minority stake holder, plans centre around direct-to-consumer business
The various forms of suiting and the merging of feminine and masculine codes – that have both become synonymous with S.S. Daley as a whole – are also reminiscent of the signature aesthetic of one of the brand’s long-time famous fans: Harry Styles. And it is therefore notable that, on the closing of the show, it was revealed that the singer-songwriter had joined Stokey-Daley as an investor of the label.
The 2022 LVMH prize winner announced the news of Styles’ minority stake investment following the Pitti Uomo event, confirming in a statement to WWD: “Harry and I have a shared vision for the future of S.S. Daley and we look forward to this new chapter together as we focus on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house.” While the financial terms of the deal were not disclosed to the media outlet, it was noted that the investment was to centre around S.S. Daley’s direct-to-consumer business, with plans to drive for a “sustainable and long-term expansion”.