Pitti Uomo: LVMH winner Soshiotsuki blending Japanese and western aesthetics

Japanese brand Soshiotsuki, winner of the 2025 LVMH Prize, is set to further establish its global presence at the international Italian trade fair, Pitti Uomo, next week.

While attention often focuses on classic Japanese culture such as kimonos, wabi-sabi and Zen, designer Soshi Otsuki dismisses clichéd nostalgia. His designs elevate elements from old Imperial Japanese Army uniforms, mourning attire and even the 'salaryman' style of the bubble era (opulent and oversized suits, paired with expensive accessories, reflecting wealth and corporate power of the late 1980s-early 1990s, ed.) into modern Western-style suits. This approach symbolises a blend of Japanese and Western aesthetics, interweaving different cultures rather than adopting a binary 'Japanese versus Western' perspective. At the intersection of today's diverse values, the designer poses the question 'What is Japanese culture?' through his clothing.

This line of questioning is not new. Japan has historically faced repeated identity crises, caught between Westernisation and its own traditions, from the Meiji Restoration (restoration of imperial rule to Japan in 1868 under Emperor Meiji, ed.) to its defeat in the Second World War and the recent rise of globalism. This conflict continues to influence the values and aesthetic sensibilities of contemporary Japanese people.

Otsuki is likely one of them. In an interview with online fashion media outlet Fashionsnap, Otsuki admitted, “I have a complex about the West,” a sentiment he channels into his collections.

Here, we trace the history of the brand and Otsuki's multicultural perspective on Japanese history, while also looking ahead to its future direction.

“A proposal of dandyism created through Japanese spirituality and tailoring techniques,” Soshiotsuki

High technical skill and narrative quality

Soshiotsuki's core philosophy is “a proposal of dandyism created through Japanese spirituality and tailoring techniques,” incorporating elements of Japanese tradition and religion into its work. The brand's originality lies in its focus on niche Japanese customs that are familiar yet often overlooked. As this concept suggests, Otsuki's experiences in two distinct educational environments, one focused on technical skill and the other on conceptual development, have shaped the brand today.

Until 2011, Otsuki studied at Bunka Fashion College in the menswear design course, where he learned the fundamentals of garment construction from basic tailoring to pattern making. The advanced technical skills he acquired became the foundation for his brand's core tailoring techniques. During his third year, Otsuki also began attending the private fashion school Coconogacco. There, he studied philosophy, narrative and clothing as a representation of identity, and began incorporating motifs from classical Japanese arts and religion into his work.

Following this period of technical and conceptual training, he officially launched his label, Soshiotsuki, in 2015. Shortly after, he was also shortlisted for the 2016 LVMH Prize.

Otsuki's earlier collections often incorporated Buddhist elements, such as prayer beads from Japanese funerals, or the disciplined structures of Imperial Army uniforms into contemporary suiting. However, from the spring/summer 2025 collection onwards, the brand shifted its focus to the 1980s 'salaryman' theme, which earned it the LVMH Prize. While this collection has sometimes been criticised as a mere imitation of existing styles, a unique perspective underpins its creation. In an interview with i-D, Otsuki spoke cynically about the trends of the bubble era. In 1980s Japan, Italian-made Armani suits were a status symbol, leading to the mass production of copies that misinterpreted the original silhouette. Otsuki felt a sense of unease with this one-sided admiration for a foreign culture, which inspired his current collection. Soshiotsuki therefore visualises the uniquely Japanese complexes and desires revealed in the process of adopting foreign cultures, transforming them into contemporary clothing, rather than simply referencing traditional Japanese culture.

The collection was created by analysing samples of 1980s Italian suit fabrics and reproducing them with hand-woven weaving techniques from Japan's Iwate Prefecture. Shirts were made from vintage deadstock kimono silk, and suits were crafted from surplus yarn from Japanese factories. This production process, however, is not merely a celebration of Japanese craftsmanship or sustainability. The act of deliberately remaking Italian-style clothing, once a symbol of foreign cultural adoration, as 'Made in Japan' questions the very structure of that desire, delivering a powerful satirical message.

Product line-up

Soshiotsuki's signature items primarily consist of tailored pieces such as shirts, suit jackets and trousers. The brand also offers accessories including bracelets and necklaces. Prices range from approximately 37,000 to 60,000 yen for shirts; 39,000 to 68,000 yen for trousers; and 85,000 to 165,000 yen (540 to 1050 US dollars) for jackets and coats, positioning the brand slightly above mid-range Japanese labels. These products are available on the official online store and via e-commerce platforms like Ssense. The brand also plans to expand its global presence through its partnership with Tomorrow.

Market development and international strategy

Winning the 2025 LVMH Prize was a major turning point for Soshiotsuki, leading to further international partnerships. Following the win, fashion development platform Tomorrow signed a global partnership agreement with the brand to support its wholesale and international expansion. A collaboration with Spanish fashion retail brand Zara also provided an opportunity to introduce its design aesthetic to a wider consumer base at a more accessible price point.

The brand's focus on the suit, a universal garment, is one reason it resonates with a global audience. Suits transcend cultural and market boundaries, presenting a low barrier to entry for international buyers and consumers. This makes them a highly effective product for initiating global expansion.

Simultaneously, the brand differentiates itself through Japanese-made materials and meticulous tailoring, adding clear 'country of origin value' and craftsmanship. This combination allows it to offer products that transcend basic menswear, with a compelling proposition in terms of quality, price and positioning.

Furthermore, the theme of 1980s Japan functions as nostalgia marketing. It evokes cultural memories for older customers, while appearing as a rediscovered, aspirational aesthetic to younger generations. This dual appeal enables the brand to attract multiple generations at once.

By combining a universally understood product category with Japanese craftsmanship and emotive storytelling, Soshiotsuki presents a commercially sound brand strategy.

Exhibition events

Following the LVMH Prize, Soshiotsuki has been increasing its exposure both in Japan and on the international stage. The brand has been selected as a guest designer for Pitti Uomo in January 2026, with a special presentation scheduled in Florence. While the line-up has not yet been announced, it is expected that a new collection will be unveiled at Tokyo Fashion Week in 2026.