Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo to continue ‘Open, Fashion Week’ concept for SS25

The Japan Fashion Week Organisation (JFWO) will be continuing its efforts of internationalisation for the next edition of Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo, set to take place from September 2 to 7. For the SS25 season, the event will move forward with its ongoing theme ‘Open, Fashion Week’, dedicated to bolstering Tokyo’s local fashion scene among a wider audience in a bid to further enhance the fashion week itself.

This is reflected in the chosen concept for this edition, ‘Fashion Fanfare’, shown already in imagery depicting what organisers said aimed to “capture a playful nature and the anticipation for the start of fashion week”. The campaign uses pieces from participating brands in a blend of cross-seasonal looks that intend to encapsulate “expressing the joy of freedom to dress in your own style”.

A total of 33 brands will be presenting across the schedule, 26 of which will host physical shows and events and six being newcomers on the line up. There are also seven overseas brands that have been selected to participate this year, including Bali-based House of Mua Mua and a collective of designers from the Philippines, in a collaboration with Manila Fashion Festival. The latter, dubbed ‘Ph Mode x TYO by MFF’ on the schedule, is part of a partnership with Japan’s Stylem that will see select Filipino designers create a collection using materials from the fabric trading company for their presentation.

Sulvam and Telma granted honorary spots via supportive projects

As always, two brands will be taking honorary spots on the schedule as part of competitive initiatives designed to bolster local names on an international level. For Rakuten’s ‘by R’ project, for which Bape and Marimekko have previously been elected, the fashion week sponsor has chosen Sulvam as this year’s recognised brand.

A decade on from designer Teppei Fujita founding the brand, Rakuten said it will celebrate Sulvam’s milestone year with a show to unveil its newly launched women’s collection. The nomination will also see Sulvam added to the official schedule of Paris Fashion Week SS25 as part of Rakuten FWT’s increased ties to the French capital’s own event, where it hopes to garner a more solid footing among a global audience. Rakuten will further back the launch of Sulvam’s reception gala marking the opening of the brand’s flagship store in Paris.

Another local label gaining recognition this season is that of Terumasa Nakajima’s Telma, a womenswear brand that is now one in a growing number of names to win JFWO’s Next Brand Award Grand Prix, and as such will hold an opening runway show to kick off the fashion week. Here, Nakajima will showcase a portion of his latest SS25 collection at the event’s official venue in Shibuya Hikarie.

In a statement, Nakajima said: “Telma was launched during Covid uncertainty, but it was founded on believing once again in the power of clothing and craftsmanship. I’m always fascinated by the wisdom and traditional techniques passed down in the regions of Japan through generations, and in awe of the genuine attitude and passion of all the people involved in its making. I take this opportunity to express my deepest gratitude for all the people who have continued to support Telma and thank JFW and the committee for recognizing the brand as this year’s ‘JFW Next Brand Award’.”

Prizes, support programmes and educational initiatives bolster line up

Elsewhere, other award ceremonies will also be taking place throughout the week, including the 10th anniversary of the Tokyo Fashion Award, which is to be held September 1 at Omotesando Hills Space O. Here, all the award-winning brands of the past 10 years will be celebrated in a space open to the general public, with speaker events to also be held throughout its duration. The winner of the 2025 edition will then be announced on the same day alongside a party to ring in the start of the fashion week. Fashion Prize of Tokyo’s ceremony, where the 2025 award-winner is to be announced, will then take place on the final day, September 7.

In relation to Rakuten FWT, the Mainichi Fashion Awards, organised by Japanese newspaper Mainichi Shimbun and supported by the Ministry of Economic, Trade and Industry, is another to host its event during the fashion week. Commemorating the 110th anniversary of the publication and recognising achievements of the fashion industry in promoting cultural development, the ‘2024 Mainichi Fashion Awards’ will present for the 42nd time on September 2.

An additional initiative supporting young talent will also be seen in a collaboration with Marronnier College of Fashion Design, which will hold a runway show on September 7 as part of Rakuten FWT’s official schedule. The school’s students will each present one work following the theme ‘Art of Passion’, showcasing their “individualist and youthful talent”, a press release noted.