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Rebellion and back to the classic values: These are the SS24 trends according to Hilde Francq

By Marthe Stroom


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Marni SS23. Image: Marni

What can we expect from fashion in summer 2024? That's what trend watcher Hilde Francq discussed during her semi-annual Colour Trend Webinar. FashionUnited attended the event virtually.

As always, Francq explained her story using four sociological trends that are leading today. Each of these, in its own way, influences the visual trends of the future. This time, Francq explains at the beginning of her story, each of these trends can be understood as coping mechanisms applied by people in a difficult reality. After all, the energy crisis, climate crisis and also the corona crisis are each part of everyday life. Opinions are becoming increasingly straightforward and trust in established systems is waning. An overarching need for change and escapism thus marks the summer season of 2024.

Take matters into your own hands

Blind trust in established systems is rare today. Instead, individuals are increasingly taking matters into their own hands to improve the world. The conviction that 'anything is possible' is central to this. The 'revolt' theme is about going against existing systems, or rather, anything that does not contribute to sustainable solutions.

A desire for *revolt* , or rebellion, translates visually into a new version of the camouflage colours that are closely intertwined with earthy tones. In this way, references to ecology and revolution are brought together. Tie dye is expressed in earthy tones with plant-based colouring techniques. Lines reminiscent of electrical cables are used in a way where there seems to be no structure at all.

Diesel SS23. Image: Diesel
Zegna SS23. Image: Zegna
Diesel SS23. Image: Diesel

The optimism of the sun

Where a few seasons back a need for meaning, peace and spirituality still translated into a visual focus on the moon, interest has now shifted to the optimism of the sun. A yearning for 'light at the end of the tunnel' translates into warm, optimistic colours and glossy surfaces.

A game of light, shadow and gradient is played with orange and yellow. Gold is also relevant, especially when combined with the shiny and fine texture of silk or in the form of beads and sequins. Digitally printed colour gradations are reminiscent of the course of the sunset.

Marni SS23. Image: Marni
JW Anderson SS23. Image: Catwalk Pictures

'Fake' is no longer a swear word

The term 'fake' is no longer negatively charged. On the contrary, its added value is increasingly recognised. Digitalisation is at the heart of this development. The line between what is real and fake is becoming finer and embracing it seems a better option than countering it. Strange and distorted silhouettes seem unintentionally distorted in photoshop and refer to the digital world. New materials create surreal and optical effects.

Younger generations have become tolerant of bright, saturated colours, thanks in particular to the gaming industry, according to Francq. Brighter colours are thus no longer just for the bold consumer in 2024.

Givenchy SS23. Image: Givenchy
Bottega Veneta SS23. Image: Bottega Veneta

A return to classical times

It is a well-known phenomenon that in turbulent times people return to the certainty of the past. In a financial crisis it is smart to invest in certainties and products that last a long time. Therefore, a call is made to the ways in which luxury was defined hundreds of years ago by romanticising the Roman era and the classic values of fashion design. Elegance and luxury are central to this and are achieved with customisation, refinement and quality. Showing off large logos is no longer desirable: the real luxury is in finish and detail. The colour landscape also harks back to classics.

Saint Laurent SS23. Beeld: Saint Laurent

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This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.NL. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.

Hilde Franq