Robert Rodriguez unveils new label Koltson at NYFW

Fashion designer Robert Rodriguez is back following his departure from Halston with a new sustainable luxury eveningwear label that promises “to create a common thread between art and fashion”.

Koltson by Robert Rodriguez was born out of wanting “to do something more meaningful that simply creating clothing,” explains the former chief creative officer of Halston in the show notes, while offering sustainable eveningwear that supports artists and artisans through collaborations and partnerships.

For the inaugural autumn/winter 2023 collection, Rodriguez has collaborated with abstract expressionist Vicky Barranguet, based in New York, on a series of seven canvas paintings titled ‘Threads,’ alongside fashion illustrator Pepe Muñoz and fashion architect Geri Gerard. Barranguet drew inspiration from Rodriguez’s mood boards and overall vision, while Rodriguez reinterpreted her artwork in the forms of prints, foiling, silhouettes, and embroideries throughout the collection, and Muñoz translated Barranguet’s art onto the gowns.

On having collaborations at the heart of his new label, Rodriguez said: "I am honoured to be surrounded by such amazing artists who inspire me to push further boundaries in my work. Through collaborations my vision comes to life."

Koltson by Robert Rodriguez makes NYFW debut

Kolston will also have a sustainability focus, with Rodriguez opting to work only with certified and natural fabrics. For the debut collection, the viscose used for the jersey is FSC Certified, and the cotton and voile, sourced from Italy, are woven at a family-owned mill that meets the highest European standards using nontoxic dyes and responsible manufacturing. The line also includes silk, which Rodriguez notes were chosen for its natural and biodegradable properties.

Rodriguez also adds that sustainability is more than just fabrics and he is choosing to produce his line locally in New York City to lower the brand’s carbon footprint and ensure shorter lead times and better quality.

“I want to support the garment district and the local suppliers, sewers, and artisans here,” explains Rodriguez. “Local production also allows for better quality control, ensures fair wages are paid to workers, shortens lead times to allow for on-demand production, and facilitates a more sustainable supply chain that minimises transportation emissions. We are hoping to play a small part in revitalising manufacturing in the US and specifically here in New York.”

There are 32 looks in the debut AW23 collection, with reinterpretations of the iconic kaftan at its core, from double-layer sheer silk georgette kaftan gowns with embroidered feathers to a crepe mini dress with an ostrich feather neckline. Other key styles include a gold metal backless jersey gown with a draped back, a black cotton poplin bustier top with gold foiling, and a corset slim-fit trouser in silky jersey paired with a cotton poplin caftan bodysuit.

Prices will start at 279 US dollars for body suits, which will be sold separately. Evening tops will range from 695 to 895 US dollars; cocktail dresses will start at 995 US dollars and go up to 1,595 US dollars; and evening gowns will range from 1,595 to 3,995 US dollars.