Sensitive Souls

Men as a rule don't wear womenswear, but next summer everything changes. Feminine touches added a little sensitivity to many collections, giving them an emotional dimension rather than a novel, camped-up shock value.

At Fendi, sheer shirting and barely-there loose-knit tee's were provocatively layered, while Ennio Capasa's collection for Costume National featured low-slung, wide-open-necked tops as well as halter-necks. And that's not all. Yohji Yamamoto's mainline collection was based around the skirt. Teamed with lace-detailed tailored jackets and bomber jackets, the effect was not only convincing but dramatic and masculine.

Jean Paul Gaultier's models literally strutted down the catwalk - in high heels. After the initial signature showmanship, the collection seductively revealed itself: apron-fronted skirting, kilts, a smattering of luxe sportswear and skin-tight waistcoats worn with neckties.

Hedi Slimane's collection for Dior Homme continued the designer's fascination with the darkly gothic, punky, tailored aesthetic that he has been developing at Dior. There was more denim, more colours (silvers, electric reds and blues), but the lines remained just as strict, with the result being a more modern, optimistic feeling.