Smart sexy

Fashion season is on its last lap with a final round of shows in Paris this week. The predictable, overtly sexy looks of the Milan catwalk were exchanged for the thinking woman's brand of sex appeal in the City of Lights . Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf chose not merely to show their collection, but to entertain weary fashionista's with a song and dance - literally. After being entertained by a ballroom dancers' spin around the catwalk and a song or two from Rufus Wainright, models made their way across the floor with stars in their eyes. Or, rather, on their lapels, décolleté's and hemlines. Deconstructed tailored men's shirts and slim cigarette pants alternated with shirt dresses and tulle skirts in a monochromatic palette of predominantly black, white and nude. The designers played with the concept of fabric fluidity by including a great deal of silk fringing throughout the collection. The female tuxedo was taken to new heights with a sheer nude and black bodice and skinny black pants adorned with stars and crystal appliqué. The practicality of it all is questionable, though decidedly Viktor & Rolf in execution.

On Wednesday, Nicholas Ghesquière took us to a galaxy far, far away with his futuristic take on spring summer 2007 for Balenciaga. Models wore goggle glasses and sported leggings embroidered with pieces of copper, slim trousers, spacey reinforced shoulders, patent and leather mesh dresses, latex dresses and floaty tunics paired with deconstructed vests. Ghesquière has completely abandoned the round shapes of the previous season. "I wanted to let go of round shapes," he told the New York Times. "Round doesn't exist anymore." The silhouette is now longer, elongated, almost compressed, with shoulders pointed and shooting upwards like a pair of Dr Spock ears. The sleeves were separated from the shoulders, thereby merely accentuating them. The designer was clearly inspired by futuristic films. It was about a whole different type of warrior chic, as demonstrated by a series of copper mesh dresses and latex leggings. Come next season, hip youngsters will no doubt be swathing themselves in leather, latex and chrome.