Those who hoped that Anthony Vaccarello would present Saint Laurent's menswear in the Berlin club scene may not have had their fill on Monday night at the presentation of the French luxury brand's SS24 collection in the German capital. Instead of hip night club Berghain, the designer opted for a well-known building and showed a collection that blurred the boundaries of masculinity and femininity.
The collection with the intriguing name “Each man kills the thing he loves” was presented at Berlin’s well known art museum “Neue Nationalgalerie”. The architectural masterpiece, a glass pavilion crowned by a steel roof, was the last major building project of architect Mies van der Rohe. The location, whose corners and edges seemed to resemble the tailoring of a jacket, offered guests on Monday evening not only a view of Saint Laurent's latest presentation but also of Berlin's setting sun.
The looks of the collection were - in many ways - self-referential. Vaccarello followed in the footsteps of Yves Saint Laurent's legendary dinner jacket, a garment that challenged notions of femininity and masculinity as early as 1966, but it was also a clear continuation of last season - both for menswear and womenswear.
Deja vu and shoulders like a sexy Frankenstein
For some time now, Saint Laurent's menswear seems to have been inspired by womenswear and vice versa. Vaccarello opened the spring/summer 2024 show in Berlin with a series of looks that, at first glance, almost evoked a deja vu, because they tied in directly with last season's womenswear.
Heavily accentuated shoulders reminiscent of a sexy Frankenstein were paired with slim, high-waisted trousers and heeled ankle boots. Trousers got a little wider as the show progressed, while formal shirts gave way to transparent blouses and low-cut tank tops, in cotton and silk.
In addition to a sensual mix of transparent materials - often with dots and leopard prints - there was silk as well as satin and also mousseline, a fabric that is firmly rooted in haute couture. These flowing materials lent lightness to pinstripes jackets or those in deep black. In addition, strict bow ties on shirt collars contrasted with halters and off-shoulder tops that accentuated the wearer's collarbone - charms usually skimped on in the traditional world of menswear.
This article was originally published on FashionUnited.de. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.