Swan songs at Balenciaga and Chloé, Schiaparelli ready-to-wear

Paris - On the fourth day of Paris Fashion Week, Chloé and Balenciaga gave no indication of the departure rumours surrounding their creative directors. Schiaparelli dazzled in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, while Rick Owens traded black for stone.

Chloé in archetypes

Featuring embroidery and shiny vinyl, ethereal dresses and vibrant waxed jackets, Chemena Kamali delivered a collection for Chloé on Thursday designed to “explore the archetypes of Chloé, never the stereotypes”.

The German creative director, in her post since 2023, was greeted with a standing ovation at the end of the show for this “Obsession” collection in the gardens of the Observatoire de Paris.

The trade publication WWD saw it as a possible “swan song”. According to investigative media outlet Glitz, Chemena Kamali is reportedly set to depart. She gave no indication of this, watched by an audience including Claudia Schiffer; Cynthia Erivo; Maude Apatow; Emma Mackey; and Lou Doillon.

Balenciaga, threatened coral

Titled “Les coraux de la liberté” (The Corals of Freedom), a reference to a work by French artist Aude Franjou, Pierpaolo Piccioli's spring/summer 2027 collection for Balenciaga was presented around a huge, orange-toned textile sculpture shaped like coral.

Several all-orange dresses, some covered in organza flowers, directly evoke the world of coral and its undulating movement.

True to the house's tradition of elegant cuts and pronounced volumes, Piccioli proposed dresses with voluminous shapes and layered finishes. The collection also featured multi-pleated cargo trousers, bomber jackets and blouses with undulating waists.

“It's probably the most personal interpretation of Cristóbal (Balenciaga),” acknowledged the Roman designer, who joined Balenciaga a year ago after 25 years at Valentino.

According to unconfirmed reports from specialist site Miss Tweed, parent company Kering is considering replacing him, as sales are not meeting expectations.

Rick Owens, a rolling stone gathers the crowd

Rick Owens is a master of a gothic style elevated to a way of life, thought and dress. He abandoned his emblematic jet-black leather and latex in favour of more mineral tones for a collection he says was inspired by stone.

His army of models wore loose, flowing trousers; tunics; and micro-jackets. The collection also included a series of very wearable, pale-hued dresses. The spectacular show was held amidst the fountains outside the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris.

Schiaparelli confirms its ready-to-wear venture

Texan designer Daniel Roseberry is the author of an improbable but acclaimed hybrid between his native Texas and the chic Parisian world of founder Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973). He admitted to finding his footing for this second season in the ready-to-wear universe.

“While our couture identity was relatively easy to define, it was, I admit, more difficult to determine who and what Schiaparelli represented in an already saturated ready-to-wear market,” he writes in his show notes.

At the heart of the Carrousel du Louvre, sculptural necklines, gold jewellery and “Schiap Black” draped with ivory lent coherence to this collection. It was conceived as a “mix and match” of pieces to be assembled for a look that immediately evokes the label.