The emerging designers putting Colombia on the fashion map

For years, Colombia has been working hard to shed its former reputation. Once commonly thought of as the world's capital of cocaine, with the Medellin drug cartel led by the infamous Pablo Escobar and the FARC rebels guerrillas painting the streets red, this aged image of a country which is currently South America's third largest economy has left its mark. However, for the past decade, Colombia has been taking huge steps to improve both its political and economical stability which has helped give consumers a much needed boost in purchasing power.

With its capital city of Bogota developing into the one of the top cities to do business in Latin America, its textiles and apparel markets has been highlighted as one of the key economic contributors to the country. According to Euromonitor International, the sector is set generate 870 million US dollars between 2013-2018, driven by events such as fashion trade fair ColombiaTex and ColombiaModa, the country’s biggest fashion week.

BCapital celebrates upcoming designers in Bogota

Although Medellin is more commonly thought of as the country’s capital of fashion, consumers in Bogota hold the power of purchase, with 37.6 percent of the country’s fashion being consumed there, which is one of the reasons that Inexmoda, the institute for fashion and exportation, felt that it was time to focus on building Bogota’s fashion industry through a new consumer event: BCapital.

Through BCapital, Inexmoda aims to reconnect the city’s locals, known as ‘bogotanos’ with their fashion system, which is fuelled by local designers and retailers such as Olga Piedrahita, Studio F, Arturo Calle and Mario Hernandez. However, there is an slew emerging designers who studied abroad but are keen to leave their mark on both the national and national industry. Whilst presenting their collections at BCapital, FashionUnited took a moment to speak to two upcoming designers, Andrea Landa and Lorena Cuevas from Mulierr to learn more about their thoughts on the Colombian fashion industry and BCapital.

Andrea Landa was born in Medellin and grew up in her mother’s atelier where she created items for her fashion accessories company Ana Maria Aguirre Accesorios. After graduating from high school, she decided to Europe to pursue her studies and 2009 she moved to London to study fashion design at the Istituto Marangoni, graduating in 2012 with an award for best graduate collection. However, rather than remaining in London to establish her brand, she decided to return to Medellin to establish her brand, Andrea Landa Fashion Workshop - why?

“Well, I had been studying and living abroad in Europe for a long time. By the time I completed my second course/degree of studies I decided to return home for a few months to see what it was like,” explained Landa, who spent close to 8 years in Europe. “Shortly after I arrived, I was invited to show my label at an expo show and participate in their fashion show.” She presented her first collection, named ‘We Grew up with Folks Tales’ at the Cali Expo in 2013 and since then her brand has continued to grow.

Andrea Landa shares darker, euro-centric looks at BCapital

“After the show people began to contact me who were interested in selling my designs, or asking where they could buy them. My mother came on board to help me with the label later on and helped sourced the machinery and types of leather I would need to make my visions come to life. So I stayed in Colombia and founded the brand from there, hiring 5 local garment workers who all had experience with leather to work in my atelier.” Her designs incorporate traditional Colombian handicraft techniques which have been reworked in a more refined and elegant way to create a more 'high-fashion' look.

"From my studies and time living in Europe, I developed a more Euro-centric vision as well as a darker look on fashion in comparison to fashion in Latin America which is quite bright. But it was whilst I was living abroad that I was able to really to admire and appreciate the Colombian handicrafts for what they were and respect all the work that goes into it. I began to see it as the artform it was and was able to combine my sense of style, handicrafting and the material I grew up with - leather - into my collection.”

Lorena Cuevas and Paola Tarazona, the design duo who make up the label known as Mulierr, decided to join forces after studying abroad at SCAD in the US and Istituto Marangoni in London. “I originally went to study in the States because of the way they handle the teaching of the arts. The schools in the US and EU are completely different from the schools in Colombia, which in my opinion lack good educational courses focusing on creative arts,” explained Cuevas. ”Today art is taught as a translative medium, you study the topics in so much depth that expands your mind and puts you into contact with completely different worlds.”

Founded in Bogota in 2012, Mulierr was born of their dual love of fashion and art. “We asked ourselves how do we paint on fabrics like they are canvases in a way that is not obvious and decided to start weaving and embroidering our own fabrics. And from there the brand was found. We combined our vision with artisanal crafts to create something very conceptual. The label, which combines traditional Colombian handicrafts such as weaving and embroidery, is inspired by geometry and textures which flatter the female form.

Mulierr creates geometric garments made with '100 % Colombian Love'

Mulierr, which means ‘women’ in Latin, also generates opportunities for single mothers and women with physical disabilities by hiring them to weave and product their designs, which are made with ‘100 percent Colombian Love.’ “It was exactly because Paola and I studied abroad that we wanted to create something that defined us as Colombian designers, supported the local industry as well as opened up the doors to launching in other International markets as well. Something that is relatable to the person no matter where they are.”

The design duo seem to be achieving their goal - Mulierr is set to showcase its Spring/Summer ‘16 collection at the upcoming Los Angeles Fashion Week, the first international showcase for the upcoming label. However, Cuevas praises Inexmoda and BCapital for offering the label is first chance to host a fashion show. “Showing at BCapital was an incredible experience for us and we are very grateful to Inexmoda and the event for all the support they offered us,” said Cuevas.

“We are emerging designers and I really think that what Inexmoda and BCapital put together to support young and established designers in Colombia is amazing. It was something the city really needed - a fashion event that also incorporates other aspects of the Colombian lifestyle whilst representing the city - you could see that it was created for Bogota. It was really magical for us to hold a fashion show here. I hope that BCapital continues on for many years because it is a real event that the city needs.”

Landa agrees with Cuevas, stressing that BCapital was just what the doctor ordered to revitalise the fashion industry in Bogota. “I think a new fashion fair, like BCapital is what this city needed. Especially with the backing of Inexmoda, it helped emerging designers like me really connect with the local bogotanos. The venues was great, the vibe was great, the audience who came, everything was great. I received a lot of compliments concerning my designs and many people inquired where they could buy my collection, which was incredible.”

Emerging designers are 'pushing the boundaries' of Colombian fashion

Both designers believe that the other upcoming designers presenting their collections at BCapital show great promise for the future of the Colombian fashion industry. “I really think that the other designers who presented their collections here are incredible," said Cuevas. "They all had a unique vision, are young, a refreshing outlook - really innovative and are showing great promise."

"I think the fashion industry is doing extremely well here," added Landa. "I can see that we are pushing the boundaries whilst supporting new and upcoming designers who are young and need help setting up their brands. But the brands that I see starting out are special in the sense that they honour their Colombian heritage and roots but also have a very avant-garde yet international and global outlook at the same time."