The MoMu in Antwerp honours Margiela

Maison Martin Magiela (MMM) is celebrating its 20th anniversary. This is being commemorated with a special exhibition at the Fashion Museum in Antwerp, the city where Magiela completed his fashion degree. Following the collection presentation in Paris last week, the rumour suddenly surfaced that after twenty years in the business Margiela has had enough. According to Suzy Menkes at the International Herald Tribune this has been confirmed by various sources. To this end Renzo Rosso has already supposedly approached two designers to follow in Margiela's footsteps. Rosso's Diesel Group took MMM over in 2002. Rosso himself denies the rumour; nor is Margiela commenting - but that's nothing new as he hasn't done so for more than a decade.

Martin Margiela (51) rates anonimity highly. Not only is he rarely seen, there are no photos of him in circulation and he never gives interviews. This anonimity strategy applies to his fashion collections too. The garments' inside labels are white, blank. Only the four white label stitches seen on the outside indicate its an MMM garment. This strategy extends to the presentation of the collections: for example, another MMM concept is models walking the catwalk with their faces covered, wearing the notorious incognito sunglasses like a stripe over the eyes.

The fashion house is in its twentieth year. As such the MoMu in Antwerp is honouring Margiela and his fashion house in full reflection of his style. Trompe l'oeil was chosen to form the basis of the exhibition, as this is a technique often utilized by the fashion house in both the shop interiors and the collections. The colour white was also opted for. One of the more striking trademarks of this fashion house is the consistent use of the colour white; in the shops, offices and showrooms, as in this way the designs are shown at their best. The garments aren't exhibited chronologically at the exhibition as fashion isn't linear. Rather, they are arranged thematically. A number of specific themes can be found in several collections, for example: anonimity, the use of second hand material, permanently creased items and assemblage, and the combining of various items of clothing into one. We see a doll's warderobe like Barbie's (again with garments from different collections) magnified to human proportions. The result: disproportional clothing with enormous zips and unfinished stitching. MMM likes to deviate from standard body sizes. But its not only the end result which is important; the production process matters too. Because who knows the real value of materials and production times anymore? MMM considers this to be crucial. His response to this question are half-finished items; not just clothing, but paint pots on the museum floor depict the production process.

This special exhibition delves deeper into the various themes and concepts brought to the fore during the fashion house's twenty years than maybe a conventional exhibtion would. Themes and concepts of the various global collections, shows, inaugurations and events as well as in the design of its shops and singular house style. For all this, Margiela isn't to be found. No photo, film or interview. Does he really exist? Thanks to the Menkes rumour we at least know the answer to that. The exhibition at MoMu in Antwerp runs up to and including the 8th February 2009.

Photo: Momu Antwerp